Heady Hobart

In Australias only island state,Tasmania,natures abundance fills up your senses

In Australias only island state,Tasmania,natures abundance fills up your senses
Absolutely nothing prepares you for the spell-binding beauty that you see when you step out of Hobarts tiny airport. With an autumnal nip in the air and the leaves kitting themselves out in burnt sienna and ochre,Hobartthe capital city of Australias only island state,Tasmania puts on a spectacular show. With just 24 hours in Hobart factored into the elaborate Southern Australian itinerary that I had prepared for myself,I was going to make the most of my tryst with this neglected little gem of a place.

As Australias second oldest city,Hobart is a great introduction to the relaxed Tasmanian way of life,enhanced by some of the finest cool climate wines,a throbbing art scene. Although the indigenous inhabitants of the area were the semi-nomadic Mouheneer tribe,Hobart was originally settled by Lietenant John Bowen in 1803. The earliest building in Hobart is no longer standing,but the earliest docks are still present in all their colonial glory.
Nestled in the hills beneath the mighty Mount Wellington,with the river Derwent coursing though it,Hobart is the perfect answer for the traveller who wants some off-the-beaten-track action.

I checked into the Islington Hotel which is run by a young couple,Amy and Nicholas Parkinson-Bates. Built in 1847,the hotel has been restored to showcase its fine Regency architecture that is typical of this area.
Bags stowed in my comfortable room,I needed comfort of another typethe edible kind. With an impressive aquamarine-hued waterfront,Hobart is dotted with delightful eateries rustling up the staplesfish-n-chips and platters of fresh oysters. At Fish Frenzy on St Elizabeth Pier,a relaxed mom-n-pop kind of place,I dug into a mean seafood chowder with a side order of fresh Tasmanian oysters and washed it all down with a glass of green tea iced tea. Besides seafood,Hobart is legendary for its eclectic world cuisine ranging from modern Italian to British pub grub that consists of all the regulars like pie,mash and roast beef platters.

With a belly full of the seas bounty,it was time to pay my respects to the sea in another way. But nothing prepared me for the high-octane action the speed boat tour had in store for me. We started off from Watermans Dock in central Hobart,with 26 passengers on board a 11.3-metre boat fitted with two 300-horsepower motors. It made for a thrilling ride around the River Derwent on to Betsey Island in Storm Bay. The sheer speed of the boat is enough to give any seasoned speed monster the heebie-jeebies.
But for those who want something different,sea-kayaking around the docks is a good way to get your feet wet. Apart from all the fun at sea,you could hit the road for a three-hour long bike ride to Mount Wellington. But that afternoon I was ready for something more relaxing than a bike ride.

I visited the the weekly Salamanca Market at Salamanca Place. This is where the Hobartians ply their ware,right next to Watermans Dock. The market place was filled with visitors snapping up everything from the unusual lip-smacking chilli beer to the mundane bric-a-brac and other assorted touristy tat. With plenty of live bands setting up shop at the market,the atmosphere was festive and rather reminiscent of an open air concert.
After a long walk around the market,I ducked into a stall selling some kangaroo pie with gravy and mash. And sure enough I loved it. To work off the heavy lunch,I decided to spend the afternoon at the Sorell Fruit Farma one-of-its-kind project in the area. This farm offers its guests a unique hands-on experience of picking fruit on a true-blue Tasmanian fruit orchard. Here you find everything from apples and cherries to the more exotic silvanberries and the scrumptious jostaberries that are native to Tasmania. Basket in hand,I picked as many strawberries as possible to take back to the hotel.

As the Tasmanian sun descended in the sky,I headed out from the farm for a drink. Back in central Hobart I stopped at the Lark Distillery,which has lip smacking variety of libations on tap. Downing a quick shot of the ultra-potent pepperberry vodka I sauntered down the road for a beer to Irish Murphys,an atmospheric pub with stone walls and lots of dark wood.

A local band was belting out Irish ditties,with their Australian accents intact. After one beer turned into two and two into three,it was time for me to grab some grub. I headed to Montys in Battery Point that is rumoured to have its very own poltergeista naughty girl called Susan. Montys is a delightful restaurant is known for its simple,elegant food. My roast dinner of rare-breed home-grown Wessex saddleback pig and a serving Coal River Valley venison with a cheese platter was complemented perfectly with the robustness of the local Pinot Noir.
Though I did not sight Susan,the dinner was a fitting end to my solitary day in a place that deserves all the hyperbole that is bestowed upon it.

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FAST FACTS
When to visit: The best time to visit would be November to March.
How to get there: Fly to Hobart via Melbourne,Sydney or Brisbane. Rent a car,campervan or motorcycle in Hobart and do Tasmania the way it was meant to be doneby road.
Where to stay: The Islington Hotel with an attached spa,a mountain-view pavilion and a well-appointed wine cellar is as cozy as it can get. Doubles at AUD 300 onwards per night,321 Davey Street Tel: 61 3 62202123 http://www.islingtonhotel.com. The Wrest Point Casino and Hotel on Sandy Bay Road,overlooking the placid harbour,is also Australias first casino hotel. Doubles at AUD 206 onwards per night,410 Sandy Bay Road Tel: 61 3 62250112. http://www.wrestpoint.com.au
What to see: Battery Point,Hobarts most historic suburb,is named after the gunnery once stationed there. Arthurs Circus,a highlight of the suburb,is a ring of cottages circling a village green. The area has tearooms,restaurants,fine antique shops and pubs. The Colonial Museum,Narranya,is located in Battery Point,as is St Georges Anglican Church 1836
What to do: No trip to Australia is complete without a nice bushwalk. And in Hobart the best place to do this is with Mt. Wellington Walks which offer an adventurous or easy walking,scenic or a wild forest tour. Picnic lunches are enjoyed in the bush or at a rustic mountain hut. A half day guided walk costs around AUD 120 per person. http://www.mtwellingtonwalks.com.au
What to eat: Sumptuous,fresh sea food at St Elizabeth Pier. A lot of multi-cuisine restaurants dot Salamanca Place,they offer great food and delectable local Tasmanian wine.