Paithani with panache

Fashion designers are now looking beyond the Paithani’s sari avatar. “Given its zari work,Paithani lends itself beautifully to Indian festive wear especially anarkalis and tunics,” says Hyderabad-based Shravan Kumar,who showed both silhouettes at a Dubai show in September. Mumbai’s Vaishali S too had Paithani anarkalis on display at an exhibition last week in Mumbai’s Artisans’ centre. “Today,there is an increased curiosity and awareness about Paithani and its possibilities. Among my Paithani creations,the response to the kashthaa-inspired trousers in particular has been great in India and abroad,” says Vaishali.

Western silhouettes with Paithani have become popular. Jumpsuits and sari gowns featured prominently in Kumar’s Dubai show,even as Harshita Chatterjee-Deshpande’s Lakme Fashion Week showing in August saw Paithani jackets garner more attention than the dupattas and ghagras. “The jackets score high on versatility as they can jazz up a plain casual ensemble,say a white shirt paired with denims,” says Chatterjee-Deshpande.

Paithani accessories too have flooded the fashion scene. Clutches by New Wave Paithani,pouches by Vaishali and jewellery boxes by Kumar are indications that the fabric is being contemporised. Kumar says that these accessories help reduce wastage. “Thanks to the gold,silver,resham zari,Paithani is quite expensive. Making bags and boxes from the left-over fabric is a smart option,” he says.

According to Nagpur-based designer Shruti Sancheti,working with Paithani is an expensive proposition. These saris are known to cost lakhs of rupees,depending on the zari used. “In my latest collection,I have used Paithani only in the borders for my asymmetrical dresses,maxis and kurtas. This has helped me control costs and,at the same time,add sheen to an otherwise plain garment,” she says. Others have worked around the costing as well: Chatterjee-Deshpande has used tussar and Paithani together,while Vaishali has combined it with Chanderi for her aptly titled line,‘Dance of Dualities’. Meanwhile,Ritu Chandwani,the founder and chief designer at Potliarts (a venture aimed at promoting tribal arts,crafts and handweaves),has used a cotton base — instead of silk — for her Paithani saris. “These saris are lighter on the pocket and in weight,” she says.

Santosh Bakle,a Yeola resident whose family has been in the Paithani weaving business for generations,has seen a rise in demand for Paithani. “From geometrical versions of motifs to rare colours such as white,black and pastels,there is a healthy demand for the new Paithani. Moreover,its appeal is no longer limited to Maharashtra as we get orders from Tamil Nadu,Gujarat and Hyderabad,as well,” he says.

vidya.prabhu@expressindia.com