At the Nizam’s Table

As we sat on the table and the waiter produced the menu,we felt a little lost: the dim lights compelled us to tilt the menu towards the candle-lit centrepiece and we managed to squint at the white letters on the glossy,black sheets.

However,a prompt order for the starters was taken and served equally promptly — in perhaps 15 minutes. Out of the four vegetarian choices,we picked Aloo ke Garley (Rs 175) which,despite promising ‘crispy spicy crust’,was soft and slightly bland,but palatable nonetheless. Choosing its non-vegetarian counterpart became difficult since there were 11 options. We settled for the “highly recommended” Patthar Ke Gosht (Rs 325),a boneless lamb preparation “cooked on granite over charcoal”,which turned out to be more salty and less spicy.

The trickiest part was choosing the main course. From among the wide range of delectable-sounding names,which occupied almost three pages,the maitre d’ insisted upon the “chef’s specials”. Murg Zafrani (Rs 350) is what stood out,with its rich gravy of onions,spices,almond and cashew nut,with a Rumali Roti (Rs 50). The portion was large,befitting a semi-fulfilled appetite of three people,and the preparation was satisfying — with its richly textured gravy and soft,succulent boneless chicken pieces of just the right size.

There was another main-course highlight on the menu. With our appetites on our sleeves,we glanced through the Biryani section — offering two non-vegetarian and one vegetarian biriyani. We experimented with the Murg Dum Biriyani (Rs. 450) and Subz Dum Biriyani (Rs. 400),with Mirchi ka Salan and Dahi ki Chutni as accompaniments. Garnished with onions,coriander,mint and boiled eggs,the most delicate part of Murg Dum Biriyani was its strong,hunger-whetting aroma. Apart from that,it was savoury with the chicken and rice cooked together,still managing to retain the softness. Subz Dum turned out to be just fine,with its combination of chunks of vegetables and whole spices.

Time for desserts. The list was a little disappointing,with only two Indian desserts and a dismal range of ice-creams (vanilla,chocolate and strawberry). We gave the Khubani ka Meetha a shot. The dessert was pleasantly served in a white bowl with a tilt base,and there were heart-shaped spoons to scoop out small,easy dumplings. A dollop of fresh cream in the middle of this apricot preparation toned down the extra sweetness. We concluded the meal with a paan.

Steer clear of this place if you are looking for a light meal. The restaurant that opened on July 31 is strictly for those with an appetite.

Meal for two: Around Rs. 2,000 (without alcohol) Golconda Bowl,22,Hauz Khas Village Contact: 011-64607774-75