Opinion The minimal years
The world watched in surprise when an unknown,fragile girl from Mumbai transformed into a Cinderella at the Oscars in one dazzling gown after another,being hailed as the next Salma Hayek.....
The world watched in surprise when an unknown,fragile girl from Mumbai transformed into a Cinderella at the Oscars in one dazzling gown after another,being hailed as the next Salma Hayek. Little has been heard of Freida Pinto since the phenomenal success of Slumdog Millionaire,but the year that began on a bleak note for the Indian film industry was somewhat better for Pintos impact,and of the movie.
In fashion,gowns,of the kind Pinto flaunted in Hollywood,have found their audience here. Youre no longer considered freakishly overdressed if you show up at a regular party in Delhi or Mumbai in flowing satin. Many film stars have chucked the sari for premieres and award functions a result,no doubt of stores like Valentino and Versace opening here. But peddling luxury products in tight times is no enviable task when even the most die-hard brand junkie is questioning the intangible worth of a Rs 3-lakh Bottega Veneta bag; though their reckoning is theyre targeting those who can always afford a couple of frivolous purchases.
Its those immune few whom art curators were also relying on; and 2009 has been a gloomy year for Indian art. Besides the loss of legends like Tyeb Mehta and Manjeet Bawa,prices,even of top artists,have fallen hugely (an Anju Dodiya pegged at Rs 95 lakh in 2008 is now at Rs 45 lakh). This might be an overdue correction; the hundreds of young painters that surfaced during the boom have depreciated like Satyam shares,by over 90 per cent. Confidence in Indian art is at an all-time low,some of Indias top auction houses are seriously in debt and international art funds that had set up in India are rethinking.
A significant shift in India this year is that luxury brands have become part of fashion culture. The most coveted names in the world are keen to establish a presence here; not only for the wealthy,but the huge potential and numbers of It-bag aspirants. Flaunting a logo has never been this important and luxury brands are here to stay. Even in art,Art Bank and Religare Arts that rent out canvases by artists like M.F. Hussain and Ram Kumar to individuals are recording growth even in depressed times. The first seconds store by Tarun Tahiliani,Design Vault,that stocks garments by top Indian designers from older seasons at discounted rates has opened,bringing in newer customers into its fold,who probably would not shop at full prices. Other enterprising individuals cashed in on the craze to convey the right image by launching luxury bag rental services in Delhi and Mumbai, already a popular concept in the West.
This is especially noteworthy,because traditionally,Indians are buyers. Credit-card use in India,though higher than ever before,continues to be among the lowest in the world,with even city-bred,flashy youngsters being inherently suspicious of debt. Yet,somewhere,theres been a fundamental change in how we view life and the perks of money and those whove been admiring luxury brands from afar dont want to wait till they can afford them. Contrarily,post slowdown in the West,conspicuous consumption isnt so cool anymore. Consumers are debating meaningless mark-ups while eco-friendly garments attract discerning buyers.
The chaos and lingering effects of the downturn could be felt everywhere but escaped the world of Indian fashion,at least if you go by the explosion of fashion weeks.
Besides the three main events,there was a bridal couture week,a menswear fashion week,and a regional week in Kolkata and Gurgaon. Now if only they didnt change venues every year between a dilapidated arts centre,a mall and hotels,creating utter confusion and ensuring that designers will not be taken seriously,talented or not. In a year that saw many designers go broke because of escalating rentals,low sales and export cancellations,Manish Arora is acknowledged to have made it,with critical acclaim at least. A couple of others like Anamika Khanna are waiting their turn,and are slowly but surely making an impact in Paris. Style,internationally,was about austerity and minimalism.
In the year 2010,consumers will continue to enjoy sales,discounts and great deals. There will be a subtle pricing shift,reflective of the changes in the luxury world. There are simply not enough people willing to pay any amount for fit,finish styling and that label. Cheers to that.
leher.kala@expressindia.com
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