Ramzan in Seelampur

“I am happy that the wages will help me buy new clothes for Eid,” he says,as he scrapes a handful of sevaiyan from the heap on the floor and slides them into a packet,which is priced at Rs 5. He doesn’t want to talk to us much,for fear that the owner,who’s not around,will find out about our conversation. The owner doesn’t let children talk to strangers,for fear of being caught for employing child labour. That probably explains the inconspicuousness of his shop.

Seelampur is one of the few Muslim-dominated areas of Delhi,made up of resettlement colonies,for former jhuggi-jhopri residents. Unlike Daryaganj and Matia Mahal in the Walled City,which are well-visited for their eating delights and tourist hotspots,or Jamia Nagar in Southeast Delhi,which houses many upwardly mobile Muslims and is frequented by people from other parts of the city due to its proximity to Jamia Millia Islamia,Seelampur is an unexplored Muslim locality for most Delhiites,making news only for the wrong reasons — petty crime,terror arrests,and in the past,communal riots.

But like any Muslim colony across the country,Seelampur too has a festive air about it during Ramzan,and people here,like elsewhere,are as busy fasting and preparing for Eid as you’d expect someone living across Jama Masjid. Like 50-year-old cook Abdul Sattar,who is so busy packing biryani and korma to be sent to a mosque for devotees’ iftar,that without taking his eyes off his work,all he says is,“Ramzan is synonymous with feasts and festivities.” Sattar works out of the shop only during Ramzan. “I cook at Muslim and Christian weddings,but during Ramzan I stay here in Seelampur,” he says.

Besides restaurants — many of which sell migrant fare such as Moradabadi biryani and lend a celebratory aroma to specially illuminated bazaars — grocery and tailoring stores are also buzzing with activity. Ateeq Muhammad,a tailor who stiches trousers through the year,makes kurtas and pajamas now,the standard dress for Eid. “It’s a happy change,” he says.

At the far end of the market,Naushad quietly makes candlestands. He has been a candle-maker for 11 years,since he dropped out of school,and remains perpetually bent while at work,his hands the shade of the metal he works with.

“I sell this to the agents and they take it wherever they have to. People like to have these in their houses around Eid,” he says.

Seelampur labourers change their work by the season. The kite-maker sells kites in August and peanuts otherwise. The vermicelli seller sells sweets in his shop rest of the year.

But everyone slows down for Ramzan. Contrary to popular belief,even the butcher reports a drop in sales. “Because people are fasting,sales drop during Ramzan and then pick up again around Eid and then the wedding season arrives,” says Nayeem,the local meat-shop owner.

Ahmad Hussain (60),has lived in Seelampur for as long as he can remember. “We are like a work force of Delhi. Our products go everywhere,” he says.