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This is an archive article published on July 6, 2013

Paratha Lane

This decade-old paratha eatery’s new branch brings the same great taste in a swanky new avatar

If you’ve gone on a hunt for true Dilli-style parathas in the city,chances are that people have recommended Shahji’s Paratha House. The Raviwar Peth eatery is so popular that at any time through the week,there is a 20-minute queue waiting to sample the promised taste of Old Delhi’s “Paranthe wali Galli”. So when we heard that a new branch had opened in Shivaji Nagar,we decided to check it out.

Our first impression was that this branch was quite different from the original version,which was set up over 10 years ago in a cramped space. The new branch has it all — ample space,lighting,décor and comfort. The black,dark brown and white décor is quiet and grown-up,and furnishings are comfortable and practical,with cushioned chairs and couches. And though there are more tables,they are well-spaced. So far,so good. But would the food have the same legendary taste?

The parathas on the menu are priced slightly higher than at other paratha houses in the area,but it still seems fair because each of the parathas and naans come with several accompaniments such as dal makhni,chhole and raita. The Papad paratha thali and Chur chur naan thali caught our eye from the menu,and we ordered Mango lassi to go with it.

Within no time,our meal arrived. The Papad paratha came stuffed with papad,of course,crushed into tiny bits that crunched with every bite. The base of the paratha too was fried to a crisp to keep it from breaking,and it crackled softly on tearing. Combined with tomatoes,onion and spices in the stuffing,it tasted like masala papad served inside a paratha.

The Chur chur naan,on the other hand,was the definition of softness. The naan didn’t come completely crushed and tattered as we had surmised from the name. Instead,it was folded in from each corner,like a large momo. Unlike regular stuffed naans,the filling here wasn’t within the naan,but at the centre,between the folded corners. So instead of disintegrating,the naan held its own,while the cheese,potato and onion stuffing stayed delightfully warm and gooey through the meal; the heat kept in by the naan’s sides. The mango lassi was also just right,not too sweet or thin. Instead,there was an interesting mango-curd sourness that gave the drink a great texture and intensity.

The menu also offers all the popular Shahji items such as the Aloo Banarsi and Dal lasooni parathas,and their famous Chaas and Patiala lassi. There is a section for dal and vegetable preparations,as well as another one for Jain (no onion or garlic) items.

We are sure to try the Aloo Banarsi paratha next.


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