
As a passionate nature lover, nothing excites me more than reports of wildlife sightings in and around Munnar, especially those relating to a highly endangered and elusive species like the tiger.
I was therefore delighted when a local tea planter recently brought welcome tidings, his face mirroring his excitement. While motorcycling through his estate earlier in the day, a full-grown tiger had nonchalantly crossed his path hardly 25 feet away and melted into the undergrowth. Needless to say, he was petrified by the proximity of the beast. A few hours later, he informed me, two cows were killed nearby.
Perhaps it was the persistent 8216;call of the wild8217; which just could not be ignored. Or maybe the nagging thought that it was the chance of a lifetime. For on the third day curiosity overcame fear and a friend and I decided to visit the site.
Emboldened by the presence of four guides, we trekked the last few kilometres that were not jeepable. To reassure ourselves 8212; and to scare away the tigers in case they were around 8212; we chatted aloud as we picked our way through a sparse eucalyptus plantation. An eerie silence cloaked the area.
Then in a small clearing beside a stream we came across tiger pugs 8212; big ones as well as smaller ones, confirming that there were indeed two tigers. Strewn around were the remnants of their 8216;kills8217;: Bones and small chunks of decaying flesh encrusted with earth and swarming with flies. The stench was overpowering. From there the tigers8217; tracks led into a fairly dense thicket nearby. Scared but intrigued, we nervously tunnelled our way in with bated breath. In the stillness even the snapping of a twig made us jumpy. Inside we found the tigers8217; pugs imprinted deep in the soft earth, their droppings, numerous strands of white hair where they had lounged 8212; and a sense of foreboding. We had intruded into the tigers8217; lair.
We quickly photographed and measured the pugs, all the while glancing fearfully around to make sure the felines were not stalking us 8212; with a change of menu in mind! Then, taking one last look around, we hurried out.
Back in the jeep we heaved a sigh of relief, thankful that 8216;Old Stripes8217; hadn8217;t caught us snooping around his den 8212; truly a sanctum sanctorum into which few dare to venture.