Yes, he’s playing tonight

Here˜s one trick the World Cup planners didn’t miss: when fixing the schedule, they made sure that the first match in Berlin would feature Brazil; no other team can hold the attention in a setting as grand...

Here’s one trick the World Cup planners didn’t miss: when fixing the schedule, they made sure that the first match in Berlin would feature Brazil; no other team can hold the attention in a setting as grand and as commanding as the Olympiastadion.

It’s easy to get unnerved in Berlin, to feel the hair on the back of your neck stand up. This is a city twice cursed, first as the capital of the Third Reich, then torn in two by another ideological war. The city now has a thriving youth and arts culture but the past, and its menace, is an almost palpable presence.

The stadium itself was the venue of the 1936 Olympics, the Games where the world first saw Hitler’s propaganda machine at work; it has been extensively refurbished but still bears much of the original limestone.

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Beyond the marathon gate, flanked by two huge stone lions, lies the Maifeld. It looks like an open-air theatre but was actually the site for Nazi rallies. The only sound this evening was that of the FIFA flags fluttering in the breeze; but stand in the main gallery, where Hitler did 60-odd years ago, and close your eyes, if you dare, and you can easily picture the awesome scene.

There is every indication of another, happier awesome spectacle on Tuesday. Brazil come here as world and continental champions and boast the best line-up in this tournament. They are blessed with a united squad, which had so much fun at practice today one wondered whether they were aware tomorrow is a short time away.

Among the array of stars the brightest was Little Ron. There he was, pigeon-toed, wearing a blue cap, teaming up with Roberto Carlos for the warm-up.

The exercises seemed a waste of time for the team; the moment they were over, the players sprung off like prize racehorses out of the trap and began their “match”.

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What would the Croatian scouts have to report on the match? That Ronaldinho didn’t score but Ronaldo did? That Kaka and Adriano looked every bit the perfect supporting cast? And that Robinho, who will probably not play tomorrow, scored a gem of a goal?

To all of this he can add one line: It doesn’t really matter. In this city of magnificent architecture, designed to inspire awe, Brazil are set to begin building their own towering edifice.