First Person

I started designing five years ago, and though I was always determined to succeed, I did not think then that I would come as far as I hav...

I started designing five years ago, and though I was always determined to succeed, I did not think then that I would come as far as I have. My work is considered saleable, I am responsible for the livelihood of 100-odd workers, I have eight collections showing at the same time at stores across the country and am now planning to branch out in London. And all this, considering I am a NIFT-reject. After I failed to make it into the institution, I went, instead, to Sophia in Mumbai.

I think the NIFT-episode made me all the more purposeful, I was like a woman possessed: looking back, I think I had a point to prove. I went on to win all the major awards during my time at Sophia and passed out in 93 with a first class. I then trained with Jasper Conran in London, where my mother stays and promptly unlearnt what I had learnt at college! Europe has such a different approach to fashion: everything is taken a lot more seriously. I remember we once spent the whole day discussing one single crease.

From then on, despite the early set-back, it was smooth sailing. I went to Ogaan to show samples of my work, they took a look at it and said, 8220;Yes, well, this is good, but we don8217;t know if it will sell in a place like ours.8221; I told them to keep the stuff with them anyway, and that I would pick it up a day later. When I went back the next day, as promised, and asked the store to hand over my collection to me, they said: 8220;What collection? It8217;s sold out.8221; I have never looked back since. Ogaan and I have a great relationship today, and they are constantly prodding me on to better myself, and I think that8217;s how it should be. Espee and Zenon in Calcutta also began to show my work, and today, stores that retail my label, Kimono, include Melange and Ensemble in Mumbai and Ffolio in Bangalore and Chennai.

I have gained some popularity with clients and a standing within the industry, but I still shy away from fashion shows. The thought of having my collection ruined on the ramp just fills me with horror. Besides, I have never believed in hype. I believe that your work should speak for itself. I would rather have 140 women wearing outfits by me at a party than have a 1,000 women attend a high-profile fashion show and not buy a thing.

I design my clothes for the well-travelled and aware woman. But I believe that there are no rigid rules: a woman may want to wear different colours and experiment with a different moods all within the same season. Which is why I have a wide range for my collection this season, from whites to peaches and pinks 8212; which are back with a bang this year 8212; and two colours that I have introduced for the first time: chlorophile green and silver grey. Too much embroidery is passe these days, and for the first time, I have a clothes the white collection without embroidery. Also a first is the reasonable range, priced between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000 and comprising light embroidery with diamond-type stones and lace. It is a hectic life: I am in Calcutta for three weeks, then in Kochi where I live for the next three weeks. Sometimes I think I have taken on more than I can handle, but I wouldn8217;t want it any other way.