Journalism of Courage
If you were asked to spot a married Bengali woman in a milieu of ladies,wouldn’t you find yourself looking at their wrists first? A traditional pair of white and red bangles is what most women from the state sport. More than the bangles,the colours are an important part of the state’s culture,its fabric,its revered Goddess. As designer Anju Modi’s show opened on Day 3 of the ongoing PCJ Delhi Couture Week in Delhi,it didn’t require the images of the Hoogly or the sepia toned ones of the Howrah Bridge or the sounds of water splashing as it came in contact with a boatman’s oar on screen to explain that Bengal and its women were the designer’s muse for the collection aptly titled ‘Devi’. “I was inspired by the iconic characters in Bengali literature that have been presented on celluloid,” as Modi mentioned post show.
The colours of the outfits didn’t stray too far away from red-white (predominantly) but did include charcoal black,muted gold,beige and copper into its fold. It also resurrected the importance of Indian handloom and heritage in couture. Using handloom fabrics like Dhakai muslin,jaamdani,tussar,block printed handloom cotton,even cashmere,Modi presented garments that stayed true to her signature style – long,flowing kurtas with intricate thread embroidery,full and layered skirts and multiple dupattas. The way Bengali women safekeep their housekeys in a knot tied at the end of the pallu was brilliantly executed by the designer in the form of pleated shoulder drapes accessorised with bronzy latkans. The Victorian influence on Bengal was reflected in the way some skirts were styled with tall ruffled collars on the bodice. As the collection progressed from lighter shades to more stronger,darker hues,the styling got fiercer. As much as we appreciate the designer’s dedication in reviving handloom and showcasing it in couture,the silhouettes could have done with some more experiments. Even though a couplet by Rabrindranath Tagore opened the show,Bangla music arrived only with the showstopper,in this case Madhuri Dixit looking resplendent in a red and muted gold lehenga paired with an embroidered corset in black. She walked to the new version of Ekla Cholo Re and essayed the “Chandramukhi look” with a fierce line of sindoor. Given how the designer wanted to portray the many “shades of a woman”,Dixit fit Devi’s role like a glove.
