Musicians146; New Clothes

Indian music maestros, once content to perform in classic silk kurtas, are now jazzing it up with flashy embellishment and designer-inspired cuts

When ustad bismillah khan performed in Red Fort on the dawn of Independence, he wore a kurta and sherwani of 8220;special Benarasi khadi8221;, which was hand stitched.

Khan sahib never had the means to sport lavish sherwanis. But now, others like Ustad Amjad Ali Khan and sons Aman and Ayaan spend lavishly on their designer kurtas. The maestros are getting the best to tone up their image even if it means copying from Abu Jaani8217;s creations. Mohan Veena exponents Vishwa Mohan and Salil Bhatt 8220;spend a fortune8221; on their clothing. 8220;We spend between seven to ten thousand on a kurta. We have approached a Delhi-based designer, Mohan Bharadwaj,8221; says Salil. He claims that Pandit Ravi Shankar and Ustad Amjad Ali Khan are the real trendsetters. 8220;But our heavy kurtas and stoles are opulent. Especially Abu Jaani8217;s creations which a local tailor copies for us,8221; says he. The next trend for them is intricately embroidered and embossed kurtas. The Bhatts even have Jaipuri jutis to match every kurta.

The Sopori family, the Kashmiri exponents of santoor, knows the art of toning down rich colours. They are soon going to sport a firan, denoting the sufiana influence on their music. Aparna Sopori says that husband Pandit Bhajan Sopori and son Abhay are passionate about tilla, done with gold thread. 8220;Pandit Sopori has always worn his trademark pine, almond and mulberry motifs.8221; Complementing his cuffs is a jaal of embroidery. Soporis haven8217;t approached a designer yet as they do not want to dilute the Kashmiri element in their outfits. Their kurtas are embroidered by a 8220;secret8221; craftsperson in Delhi and others based on the banks of Jhelum .

However, Pandit Bhim Sen Joshi, Pandit Rajan and Sajan Mishra, world-renowned vocalists from the Benaras Gharana, have simple tastes. Sticklers for perfection, they get their kurtas hand-stitched. 8220;We can8217;t really trust anyone with the stitching apart from the Muslim women in Benaras,8221; say the Mishras. A fine running embroidery on the collars and cuffs is sufficient for Mishra seniors. But their sons, Ritesh and Rajnish Mishra, are catching up with the designers. They like outfits from the Ahmedabad-based designer couple Shyamal and Bhoomika. Says Ritesh Mishra: 8220;Their kurtas are comfortable and they don8217;t overdo the embroidery.8221;

Probably you might soon see Mishra juniors sporting dhotis like their fathers. Says Pandit Rajan Mishra: 8220;We have been trying to convince them to wear dhotis, but they don8217;t listen to us. Dhotis are impressive, comfortable and look elegant. Bengali and Madrasi dhotis have the best fall.8221; Designer kurtas and Bengali dhotis, that8217;s a really whacky combo.