In films,costumes create a tactile layer of mood

You never really know how a film is going to turn out,you just put your faith in strong directors and hope for the best. Its not so much a question of luck as it is about strong vision. Both my directors had a strong opinion,and an important story to tell.

Is your choice of doing mostly global films a deliberate one?

Yes,I guess. I went to film school in New York and I grew up on international cinema. My dream has always been to work and live globally and to mix cultural and visual languages. All manner of diversity is important. It keeps ideas fresh.

How are both films different so far as costumes are concerned?

All films take you on a different journey. Directors views differ,crew,locations,budgets are not the same. But ultimately,designing for films is a similar process: from research to conceptualising,design meetings,execution and fittings. Pi and Reluctant8230; are fairly similar in my mind: highly emotional,moody stories in which the costumes create a secondary layer of mood an emotional,tactile layer that makes the viewer feel the characters more strongly.

Life of Pi is a 3D film; how did it affect your styling?

It involved a lot of technical trial and error. It was an exciting process just to see how the camera reacts to colours and patterns. We tested all the costumes with 3D and then watched it on a big screen trial room with 3D glasses on. It was a thrilling learning experience not just for me,but also for all the heads of departments.

The Reluctant Fundamentalist seems to require no work: its easy to style for north Indian or Pakistani contemporary settings. But the clothes and the music and the cinematography of this film,in particular,all seem to go hand in hand8230;

I attribute that complexity to Mira Nair. She has an incredible visual sense and is very strong and specific on music. It really is the result of an intricate and loving collaboration. Declan Quinn cinematographer and I have worked together several times and we had an incredible production designer in Michael Carlin. We all discussed colours and moods in pre-production as well as through the filmmaking process. When you have a cohesive film unit with different talents coming together to tell one story,you get a fine product like The Reluctant Fundamentalist. But the answer to that question is no,it was not easy.

What about shooting Lahore scenes in New Delhi?

We shot in Atlanta for New York City and in Delhi for Lahore and even parts of Turkey. That was a massive challenge,maintaining the authenticity of the places and recreating them elsewhere with limited time and budget. That was the hardest part.

You have competition on your home turf: your stylist sister Niharika Khan has even picked up a National award for The Dirty Picture. Do you always talk films and clothes?

Niharika and I dont consider each other competitors. In fact,I dont think that designers compete with each other. Theres no way to,you see. She has her very specific visual style and identity,and I have mine. We talk about films and clothes,but no more than we talk about family and relationships or food and travel.

I personally thought Zoya Akhtars Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara was styled superbly,but there was so much other fun to be had in the film,it seemed to have gone unnoticed.

Thanks,thats nice of you to say. I feel like I got noticed as much as was required. The film was about fun,and letting loose and having a laugh and I certainly did all of those things. Zoya and I are very close and the whole film unit consisted of friends and family. As for the styling,I accomplished what I set out to do. The film has a certain breezy casualness and a sense of humour,which makes me smile every time I watch it. I think that rubs off on the viewer as well.

You hopefully have a long list of newer films you are working on8230;

A short list. Im currently filming a comedy in New York with Marissa Tomei and Sam Rockwell.

And finally,and most obviously,is it different styling Hollywood stars like Kiefer Sutherland from Indian ones,like say Katrina Kaif?

Not really winks.