Reference Point

Express corespondents Richa Bhatia and Alia Allana explain how designers took the middle line,with inspirations from the West and a sari gown.

FOR an industry that thrives on freaks,designer Arjun Saluja opted to borrow a line or two from his western counterparts. References were obvious,as models walked out in eccentric cocoon jackets with arms jutting out of the sleeves and blanket type wraps. For a minute,the sedate Delhi crowd was transported to the Celine Fashion Show in Paris,where freakishness is eulogised. Is there room for such clothes? It depends on the psyche of the person wearing it, said Saluja,post the show that took place on Wednesday evening.

The mix of fabric,cotton with chiffon,was reminiscent of British designer Rick Owens,while the cocoon jackets reminded one of Alexander McQueen and designer Matthew Williamson. Saluja closed the show with a white gown,topped with a bow-tie — a fabulous mix of the popular endogenous look.

Meanwhile,every big style cheese was present at the Tarun Tahiliani show,that turned out to be an extremely saleable fall collection. Socialites Tanisha Mohan,Ameeta Seth,designer Ranna Gill with a baby bump,Ritu Kumar and Poonam Bhagat sat in the front row,gushing over the oriental drama that unfolded on the runway. Models walked out wearing Vietnamese farmer hats,modernised with a red trim underneath. Also seen were a lot of tassels,a la vintage Missoni. The runway had coal blue,fringed tunics with quilted obi belts,kimono tops paired with wide palazzo pants and inky blue biker jackets styled with pleated pants.

True to form,the next line was of concept saris — the sari gown,clinched with an embroidered obi belt and paired with a Swarovski choli. When asked if he was trying to make the sari a gown,Tahiliani replied tritely,Im just making the sari as easy as a gown.

In a departure from Tahiliani,designers Pankaj and Nidhi had a jaw-dropping multi-coloured gypsy bolero. The duo is certainly not afraid of mixing a stripe with a check or with a floral print. They are the go-to people for all things geometric,as they rustled up a collection in solid colours,complete with playful geometric tile patterns. On the runway,were fitted sheaths,shirt dresses,capes and superb structured jackets in pale pink,with high collar.

With Alia Allana

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