Good food, Generally

South Asian hospitality is legendary, but it is never more in evidence than when dignitaries from across the border come a-calling. So it was when Atal Bihari Vajpayee was in Lahore after crossing the border in a bus during that spring of 1999. He was treated to the best kebabs, kormas and pillaus that the master chefs of Lahore 8212; some of whose ancestors may well have been trained by Noor Jehan herself 8212; could conjure up, as well as kulfis and kheers to captivate a visiting prime minister whose sweet tooth was no state secret.

New Delhi8217;s kitchens, never to be outdone, can produce a fine culinary symphony should the occasion demand it. On Sunday, Rashtrapati Bhavan took President Musharraf on a guided culinary tour of the country: from the idlis and dosas of our president8217;s home state to the momos of the Northeast to special Kashmiri fare. If there was a subliminal political message about the integrity of India8217;s borders in the choice of fare, Musharraf gave no indication of having received it. He is, in any case, no spring chicken when it comes to Indian hospitality, having taken its munificence in the chin during his visit in July 2001. The Indian PM had then served him dariya ke ratan charcoal-broiled tiger prawns and chaamp-e-Lucknowi kid lamb chops flavoured with herbs 8212; but only as appetisers. The main course included sali boti, safed badami murg, guchchi palak, and Musharraf8217;s favourite, dal gosht.

Musharraf, it may be recalled, had expressed his deep appreciation for the meal and then gone on to try and turn the dining tables on his hosts by attempting to get the creme-de-la-creme of India8217;s editors to eat out of his hands. He offered them a breakfast of eggs florentine and spa omelettes, thrown in with melt-in-the-mouth muffins, the softest of croissants, the freshest of juices, as indeed a choice of south Indian fare for those with more indigenous tastes. The jury is still out on whether the meal worked its magic or not. But it only went to show that hospitality is diplomacy by other means 8212; and the salt and pepper can be added according to taste.