Delhi University to replace robes with angavastra for convocation: Why are robes and caps worn at graduation?

That isn’t to say this is a novel decision. In 2019, the University of Mumbai also changed its convention, and so did other colleges in Maharashtra even before this move. But why are such robes part of the ceremony in the first place? We explain.

The history of the ‘scholar robe’ and cap

Many universities in their present form have been inspired by centuries-old institutions in Western countries that enjoy significant prestige. Their conventions often become standard practice for others to follow. Something similar has happened with graduation attire in many countries.

But some sources also attribute robes to Islamic scholars in West Asia and North Africa, and that they made their way westward. Madrasa Al Azhar in Egypt, established in the 10th Century, is cited as the source for wearing these robes began according to ‘The Rise of Colleges: Institutions of Learning in Islam and The West’ (1981) by George Makdisi. As was the case in Europe, institutions of higher learning in these regions were initially for the purpose of religious teachings, later moving towards law, mathematics and astronomy.

According to the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), one of the world’s most reputed institutes for sciences, the academic dress dates back to the 12th and 13th centuries, when European universities were emerging from religious organisations. The ordinary dress of the scholar, therefore, was that of a cleric. Medieval scholars generally had shaved heads. Hoods or caps like the pileus were worn, resembling a skullcap, to protect the head. The square caps (called mortarboards) worn nowadays came later.

Additionally, in late 14th-century England, some colleges forbade “excess in apparel” and began to prescribe the wearing of a long, sober robe. The statutes of the universities of Oxford and Cambridge – the oldest universities in Britain – prescribed a definite academic dress and made it a matter of university control.

This came to the US, with colonisation. New York-based Columbia University states that a warm gown and hood were also useful in unheated buildings. Further, “The distinctive gown served to set the student apart from his fellow citizens” because, for a long time, Columbia students wore caps and gowns daily while in residence.

Over time, black colour was decided on and unique details were added based on the degree one was pursuing, such as a particular colour or sewed-in design for medical students, another for law students, and so on. As to why the caps are thrown in the air, a National Geographic article states another early religious influence. Except during prayer, caps were to be worn at all times in the ceremony. “However, in 1912 the graduating class at the U.S. Naval Academy tossed their midshipmen hats after they were given new officer caps during the ceremony”, it says. This led to a new tradition.

The criticism of the attire

In 2010, then Union Minister and Congress leader Jairam Ramesh, while addressing students at the convocation of the Indian Institute of Forest Management in Bhopal, said, “I still have not been able to figure out after 60 years of Independence why we stick to these barbaric colonial relics.”

He asked, “Why we cannot have a convocation in simple dress instead of coming dressed up as medieval vicars and popes,” and removed the gown he was wearing on top of his kurta.

The University Grants Commission (UGC) asked universities in 2015 to consider using handloom fabric for ceremonial dresses to promote them. “Using ceremonial robes, made out of handloom fabrics, would not only give a sense of pride of being Indian but also be more comfortable in the hot and humid weather,” the letter said. Some opposition was seen on campuses like the University of Hyderabad, where people questioned the need for one particular type of Indian clothing to be chosen over others.

Similarly, in 2017, current Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman said at the Indian Institute of Foreign Trade (IIFT) convocation, “Hold a competition amongst yourself (as in) how you want to receive your degrees (next time), if not like this. It is my suggestion to students and faculty. It is a light suggestion. I am not wearing a gown today. I know it’s a matter of extreme pride, honour and a tradition which we all follow, wearing the convocation gown,” said Sitharaman.

She added that she has “nothing against it (the gowns)”, and that she does not wish to disrespect them but feels uncomfortable when wearing them.

St Xavier’s principal Professor Rajendra Shinde had said, “At St Xavier’s, we’ve introduced a traditional dress code since 2016. The black robes aren’t suitable for our weather conditions. The practice also turned out to be expensive. Since our convocation ceremony is held over three days, we had to get nearly 300 robes ironed before each ceremony.”