From the Masses

Most brands are justifiably self-promoting,but one cant possibly underplay the contribution of Nonino,the family-run grappa producer,to the progression of the Italian spirit.

Written by MangalDalal

May 13, 2010 11:59 PM IST

3 min read

Most brands are justifiably self-promoting,but one cant possibly underplay the contribution of Nonino,the family-run grappa producer,to the progression of the Italian spirit. Until the 1970s,grappa was considered a sharp,stiff spirit drunk by poor Italians. It was only due to Noninos innovationsmaking grappa from a single grape varietal and packaging it betterthat grappa gained popularity abroad and with gourmets in Italy. As R W Apple Jr wrote in the New York Times,Nonino tamed grappa,taught it table manners and gave it mass appeal,not only in Italy but overseas,too.

Grappa may not have as prestigious a history as cognac,but other firms have followed suit with their attention to quality and creatively designed bottles,such as Alexander grappa that is available in some Italian restaurants in Mumbai. Elisabetta Nonino,a third-generation owner,points out that Italy still primarily produces cheap grappa. Ninety per cent is still produced industrially. Some of these are manufactured by wine producers,who simply diversify by producing grappa as well as olive oil, she explains. For Indians,the experience of grappa has thus far been of a sharp,fiery clear spirit that warms more than it delights. Thats why Noninos smooth,fragrant and fruity reserve grappa,which is dark honey-coloured due to age,comes as a pleasant surprise.

Elisabetta explains that the difference lies in the process. We use an artisanal method and distill using steam. Since it is not continuous distillation as with industrial production,we can retain the distillates produced during the middle of the process and discard the more toxic distillates, she says. Grappa is distilled from pomace,the residue of the grapes from wine-making that consists of seeds,skin,pulp and stems. It therefore makes a difference which grape residue is used and which varietal; the pomace of dessert wines produce sweeter grappa. While artisanal grappa producers make blends,some of which are aged,the interesting ones are made from single varietals. For example,Noninos grappa made from Chardonnay pomace could easily be an approximation of a reduction of the wine.

The other major trend in grappa consumption has been the advent of Grappa cocktails. While the spirit is normally consumed as a digestive and paired with either coffee or dessert,it poses a challenge to bartenders since it doesnt have any classic combinations as a base. There has been an increase in grappa-based cocktails,especially in London. Milan and other Italian cities are following suit, Elisabetta explains. She does admit that artisanal grappa is prohibitively priced so only high-end bars offer them.

Cocktails might be the catalyst that makes this relatively unknown spirit more familiar to Indiansespecially given that Indian dont have a culture of consuming digestives. Sumedh Singh Mandla,CEO of Aspri Spirits,the importer,acknowledges this and hopes that grappa will compete with single malts. Elisabetta,though,cautiously aims to simply have the brand available at respectable Italian restaurants. She recognises that India wont be a large market,admitting that We are in India only for presence.

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From the Masses

Most brands are justifiably self-promoting,but one cant possibly underplay the contribution of Nonino,the family-run grappa producer,to the progression of the Italian spirit.

Most brands are justifiably self-promoting,but one cant possibly underplay the contribution of Nonino,the family-run grappa producer,to the progression of the Italian spirit.