Repast in Rampur

Spices and textures are at the core of the newly-opened Awadhi-inspired restaurant

Several years ago,where Good Earth and Oma hold fort now,that corner of Khan Market was home to the Rampur Kitchen. The cloistered marbled eatery served food from the erstwhile princely state of Rampur,a tiny fiefdom within the larger kingdom of Awadh. While that restaurant shut down quite a while back,the individualistic Rampuri food has new representation in the recently opened Rampur Kitchen in New Friends Colony (no relation). The restaurant is simply clad in uncomplicated wooden furniture and white walls,with a big open kitchen on one side from which issue the most appetising smells and the mellifluous sounds of skewers hissing and coal popping,the emphasis clearly on the food.

The menu is,in fact,more Awadhi than Rampuri,though this is probably because most of the culinary traditions and recipes of the royal kitchens of Rampur were orally passed down through the generations,and subsequently,lost. Dishes like the legendary sweet halwa made of goat meat have become just that,stuff of lore.

For starters,we order the Non-Veg Kebab Thali,which comprises Kakori,Galawati,Chicken Seekh and Chapli kebabs. The Kakori and Galawati are probably most representative of the several Awadhi kebabs and the spellings of the latter are at least as varied as its flavours in different restaurants. At the Rampur Kitchen,both are serviceable renditions,the galwati with an appositely smoky flavour and yielding texture while the kakori,though not quite the level of Al-kauser (our favourite purveyors of kakori in the city),is still eminently respectable.

The chicken seekh is a chicken seekh,enough said,while the chapli,originally from the Pashtun region of Afghanistan,is the most hat ke thing on the plate. Studded with tiny pieces of onions,bell peppers and tomatoes,the flat,circular kebab resembles a tiny meat frittata or omelette,bursting with flavour,its meatiness nicely accentuated by the veggies.

After the rather heavy starters,we decide to take it easy (well,relatively) on the main course and order a Rampuri Taar Qorma (Or korma if you prefer. Whats a consonant between friends?) and Butter Naan. The kormas gravy is the consistency of soup,so characteristic of Awadhi curries,as opposed to the far richer and more viscous Mughlai gravies. Despite its shade of burnished red and a slick layer of oil on its surface,the korma is surprisingly light. Heavily infused with cardamom and cloves,with a nutty finish,the gravy is excellent,while the meat,ready to drop off the bone is tender and well marinated. We intend on returning soon.

Meal for two: Rs 600 (including taxes,excluding alcohol)

Address: 47-50,1st Floor,India Mall,New Friends Colony

Contact: 41013244

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