I’ve Got Mail

Dak-Runner Sher Singh on carrying post on foot over dangerous mountain terrain

BG Verghese (left) and Karan Singh at the book launch.

Sher Singh’s job is to carry mails between Raksham and Chitkul, villages situated at 11,150 ft in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh, where nobody asks, “Do we still have Dak-Runners?” Across India, on landscapes where no wheel will turn, Dak-Runners such as Singh strap mailbags to their shoulders and stride towards remote settlements. Chitkul, for instance, is the last village on the Himachal Pradesh-China border. Singh, 49, was in Delhi — his first time in the Capital — for the launch of journalist BG Verghese’s book, Post Haste, which is dedicated to “the Dak-Runners of India, who still connect us contemporaneously and with our past”.

“I never see what is in the mail but I expect there are several job letters and exam roll numbers. I know there are people waiting for these and this keeps me going,” says Singh, a day after the launch, at the offices of Tranquebar-Westland, publishers of Post Haste.

Even in Delhi, Singh wears his uniform of khakhi shirt and trousers, paired with thick leather shoes and pink woollen socks. Outdoor, the sun is blazing but the Dak-Runner isn’t breaking into a sweat. “These shoes and socks never become hot in summer or cold in the snow. I can wear them in Delhi, Mumbai, in the hills, anywhere,” he says. Singh had the shoes and socks made for the job, while the uniform is a postal department issue.

There are no roads on his beat, informs Singh, only paths made by animals and a few humans. “It is 12 km from Raksham to Chitkul and takes three hours to cover. I hand over the mailbag at the post office in Chitkul and carry a fresh bag back to Raksham,” he says. At Raksham, he exchanges mailbags with a Dak-Runner on the Sangla-Raksham stretch. Singh has mastered the Dak-Runner’s walk. “One doesn’t speed up or slow down, we maintain the same pace all through,” he says.

The Himalayan ranges beyond Kinnaur district, is home to thick forests in which landslides are as frequent as sheep, yaks, goats and leopards. “I came across a cheetah twice. If I had run, the animal would have chased me, so I stood still. I could hear my heart hammering. I was sure I would be killed,” he says. At other times, he has come across bears and had leopards leaping across his path on their way to the khuds below or the forests above. “During winter, when the snow is up to my thighs, I watch out for footprints before deciding my course,” he says, adding, “I have a staff but I am all alone so have to be alert.”

Singh has an erect posture and an unsmiling, focused look. The only time his voice charges up is when he recalls the story of the legendary Dak-Runners of India. A primary school pass-out, Singh has never read the history of Dak-Runners, but the buzurg (elderly people) at home would talk about men who would “walk in such a way that everybody stepped aside.” “These were the dakiya, now called Dak-Runners, and they walked night and day. There were ghungroos tied to their feet and on the staff in their hands so that everybody knew 10-15 km ahead that a dakiya was on his way. Even snakes moved out of their path,” he says.

According to Post Haste, such messengers were called harkaras and the Mughal empire had a network of 4,000. Verghese says nobody knows how many Dak-Runners still exist in India, though the postal department apparently puts the number at 150-200. They operate in mountain regions of Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and the Northeast.

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Singh, son of a farmer, still practises farming in a five bigha land in his ancestral village of Bhabhanagar, where his family, which includes his six children, live. “It is 120 km from where I work, so I visit on Sundays,” he says. No, he doesn’t walk the way, he takes a bus.

Dipanita Nath

Dipanita Nath is a Senior Assistant Editor at The Indian Express, based in Pune. She is a versatile journalist with a deep interest in the intersection of culture, sustainability, and urban life. Professional Background Experience: Before joining The Indian Express, she worked with other major news organizations including Hindustan Times, The Times of India, and Mint. Core Specializations: She is widely recognized for her coverage of the climate crisis, theatre and performing arts, heritage conservation, and the startup ecosystem (often through her "Pune Inc" series). Storytelling Focus: Her work often unearths "hidden stories" of Pune—focusing on historical institutes, local traditions, and the personal journeys of social innovators. Recent Notable Articles (December 2025) Her recent reporting highlights Pune’s cultural pulse and the environmental challenges facing the city during the winter season: 1. Climate & Environment "Pune shivers on coldest morning of the season; minimum temperature plunges to 6.9°C" (Dec 20, 2025): Reporting on the record-breaking cold wave in Pune and the IMD's forecast for the week. "How a heritage tree-mapping event at Ganeshkhind Garden highlights rising interest in Pune’s green legacy" (Dec 20, 2025): Covering a citizen-led initiative where Gen Z and millennials gathered to document and protect ancient trees at a Biodiversity Heritage Site. "Right to breathe: Landmark NGT order directs PMC to frame norms for pollution from construction sites" (Dec 8, 2025): Reporting on a significant legal victory for residents fighting dust and air pollution in urban neighborhoods like Baner. 2. "Hidden Stories" & Heritage "Inside Pune library that’s nourished minds of entrepreneurs for 17 years" (Dec 21, 2025): A feature on the Venture Center Library, detailing how a collection of 3,500 specialized books helps tech startups navigate the product life cycle. "Before he died, Ram Sutar gave Pune a lasting gift" (Dec 18, 2025): A tribute to the legendary sculptor Ram Sutar (creator of the Statue of Unity), focusing on his local works like the Chhatrapati Shivaji statue at Pune airport. "The Pune institute where MA Jinnah was once chief guest" (Dec 6, 2025): An archival exploration of the College of Agriculture, established in 1907, and its historical role in India's freedom struggle. 3. Arts, Theatre & "Pune Inc" "Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak were not rivals but close friends, says veteran filmmaker" (Dec 17, 2025): A deep-dive interview ahead of the Pune International Film Festival (PIFF) exploring the camaraderie between legends of Indian cinema. "Meet the Pune entrepreneur helping women build and scale businesses" (Dec 16, 2025): Part of her "Pune Inc" series, profiling Nikita Vora’s efforts to empower female-led startups. "How women drone pilots in rural Maharashtra are cultivating a green habit" (Dec 12, 2025): Exploring how technology is being used by women in agriculture to reduce chemical use and labor. Signature Style Dipanita Nath is known for intellectual curiosity and a narrative-driven approach. Whether she is writing about a 110-year-old eatery or the intricacies of the climate crisis, she focuses on the human element and the historical context. Her columns are often a blend of reportage and cultural commentary, making them a staple for readers interested in the "soul" of Pune. X (Twitter): @dipanitanath ... Read More

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