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This is an archive article published on January 8, 2012

For Starters

A look at trends that failed in 2011 and ones that might come to define the new year.

A look at trends that failed in 2011 and ones that might come to define the new year.

Its that time of the year when everyone is a soothsayer or,at the very least,a trend-spotter. I have far more modest ambitions for myself and shall begin this piece on trends on steadier ground. So let us start with the things that didnt start at all:

Mexican Cuisine: Salma Hayek,post-baby and avuncular spouse,is still a pin-up and the frozen margaritas and salsa chips work,so must the cuisine; right? Wrong! Alas,Mexican food didnt quite take off in the country. What did work was the Tex Mex and there was nothing authentic about that. Chefs are still trying to figure out what went wrong,the spiciness so close to our palate,the burritos like our rotis and their love for beans and corn so much like ours. Heck,Taco Bell is giddying up as we speak. So what went wrong? Maybe its all a little too familiar?

Cupcakes: Can I get away with saying,die cupcakes,die,or is that too emphatic? Philosophical standpoint aside,when food becomes a social statement thank you Sex and the City,it8217;s time to re-evaluate its impact and authenticity. Someone has to call the muffin8217;s bluff: for too long,the muffin with an icing beard has masqueraded as a cupcake. Heres the deal: get it right or give it up. As for those chocolate dip fountain thingies,dont get me started!

Fast Sushi: The only thing we like off the conveyor belts from Japan are its cars. It feels like only yesterday when sushi pop-ups,which had spent more money on their vacuum sealer machines than on the quality of their nori,were in every mall8217;s food court. Thimblefuls of overdried wasabi and wilted gari accompanied this miserable feast. The conveyor belt sushi is out,only it was never in. The attempt to reduce sushi to a modern-day convenience has thankfully failed.

Breads: Unfortunately,carbophobia continues unabated,which means that despite the introduction of artisan breads,the diet-conscious diner is still shying away from bread and its daily goodness. However,things seem set for a change in 2012 and chefs are kneading their hands in anticipation.

2012 seems set to be the year of dining out. So let8217;s take a look at some of the predictions for the year:

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Vietnamese cuisine: It might well be the international cuisine pick for the year. The enduring popularity of Thai food has encouraged chefs to wade into the South China Sea and experiment with Vietnamese cuisine,with its heavy dependence on fresh ingredients and expansive vegetarian options.

Glocal: The buzzword in kitchens right now is to think global,and procure locally. Restaurants have been working towards sustainable vendor development for a while. Initially,it was driven by necessity the unreliability of distant or overseas suppliers,the expense involved,quality etc. As import rules relaxed and delivery channels became more reliable,the desire to develop local suppliers took an ethical and environmental turn. Today,a majority of ingredients are procured locally and,in many cases,suppliers have come upto international standards,notably by five-star hotels. What does it do for us,the regular diners? Apart from getting our money8217;s worth,we also have access to some of the highest quality ingredients in the local market.

Artisan pizza: All it takes to make pizza dough is flour,water and a little yeast. The basic tomato sauce is even easier and doesnt require the skills of a saucier. So whats so trendy about pizzas going artisan,especially when the term is getting desperately mainstream and abused? We live in a country where most of the food we consume is already artisan,to the extent of it being prepared by hand from cut to stir. As we battle the invasion of instant gratification,and other aspects of living get more convenient,maybe we will have a little more patience when it comes to our pizzas. And ditch the chewy,pizza dough with wilted veggies and processed cheese toppings and go for pizzas made the real way.

Coffee shop menus: For too long,coffee shop menus have displayed an unimaginative regional bias with Indian cuisine comprising Punjabi and south Indian popular staples,with the obligatory exception made for Hyderabadi biryani. Thats about to change. Dont be surprised if the Rajasthani gatta curry and laal maas become regular menu items and not pop-up menu specials. Or the dhokla is served via live stations at the lunch buffet. Chefs are taking a serious look at their menus and realising that culinary trends need not always come from abroad.

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Advaita Kala is an author and has worked in restaurants and kitchens in India and abroad

 

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