A walk in the Clouds

We bring you the best destinations for a monsoon holiday

AMBOLI,MAHARASHTRA
On the impossibly green road to Goa,just after Kudal,but before Sawantwadi,there is a little left turn that leads to one of the most splendid monsoon destinations in western India. Amboli,a little village that comes alive in this season due to its waterfalls and the translucent mist that drifts in and out from the hills.
Even on the winding road up to the little wet village,youll find towering masts of dense forests. You can also see three-tiered waterfalls tumbling down the hillside. Sometimes,when the clouds droop lower than the hills,it seems as if the waterfall has dropped from the sky above.
The beauty of Ambolis waterworks is that most of them burst into life only in the rains. And around the biggest,sprout a clutch of dhabas and tea stalls. But there are plenty hidden in the folds of the hills for you to hunt out for your moment of peace. A word of caution though,the rocks can be very slippery and the force of the water is strong enough to sweep you off your feet. My advice would be to go to Amboli early in the day because the place is a popular one. And brace yourself for the sight of men in undergarments of varying stages of elasticity that have been called upon to serve as swimwear. Once you8217;ve had your fill of bathing and shivering in the cascading water you can start exploring the other attractions.
Theres the old ruin of Madhavgad Fort and a few temples around the village. But if that isnt your scene,just go beyond the village and spend some time in the open fields. During the monsoons,a delicate network of little streams runs through these. Cattle graze in the fields; the villagers are quite friendly and up for a chat.
Getting there:
Amboli is 511km from the start of the Mumbai-Pune Expressway. To get there,exit the expressway after the first toll booth,cross the bridge over the expressway and take the road to Parli that joins NH17 the Goa road at Nagothane. Then head towards Goa and you can break journey at Chiplun,224km away. A good place to stay here is the Quality Resorts Hotel Riverview Chiplun.
Where to stay:
Amboli has small basic hotels,all with that pervasive feeling of dampness. So a better option would be to stay at Hotel Neelam Countryside for booking call 91-22-24042501 at Kankavli,203km from Chiplun,and do a day-trip to Amboli which is a further 85km from here.
Rishad Saam Mehta

BASTAR,CHHATTISGARH
Chhattisgarhs claim to fame is its Bastar district that firmly hangs on to its tribal roots. This is the reason why so many of the forests here are intact and areas densely wooded. Roads are more often than not avenues bordered by tall,ancient trees. So you can imagine how verdant the area get when the rains arrive. There are waterfalls by the dozen but the most popular ones are the Chitrakot and the Tirathgarh falls. The former on the Indravati river is a magnificent horseshoe-shaped cliff with a sharp incline,over which millions of cubits of water tumble in unabashed abandon.
The tribals,who have grown up with the falls in their backyard,know how to read its moods. When they think it safe,they take tourists out in a little dugout as close to the base of the waterfall as they can dare. They can expertly paddle the canoe,made from a trees bark,to a point where you can feel the spray of the waterfall.
Besides this,Bastar is famous for its tribal markets or haats which are held weekly in different villages. You can buy vegetables,handicrafts made of bell metal and also the famous pickle made from red ants. If you have the stomach and fortitude for it,you can taste the famous mahua liquor. It is stored in aluminium vats and served in glasses made by folding the leaves of the mahua tree to form a cup. Be warned,though smooth to put down,it has the knockout power of a bull elephant.
Where to stay:
The town of Jagdalpur makes a good central base to explore Bastar. A good option is the Rainbow Hotel.
Getting there:
Jagdalpur is 300km from Raipur,the capital of Chhattisgarh. Raipur lies on NH6,the arterial west-to-east National Highway of India,and it is 278km east of Nagpur which is also on NH6. Chitrakot falls are about 35km going west from Jagdalpur. Tirathgarh is south of Jagdalpur.

Rishad Saam Mehta

THEKKADY,KERALA
There are national parks,and national parks. And then there is the Periyar National Park,one of the largest wildlife sanctuaries in the country. But why talk Periyar in the rains? First,it is stunning. It also one of those few national parks open to the public during the monsoons.
Imagine a park sprawled over 777 sq km with a 26 sq km man-made lake in the centre. Imagine endless stretches of savannahs,moist teak,elephant grass,and evergreen scraps where tigers and cobras live happily ever after Imagine a reserve where you can actually spot a tiger. Imagine the rain thundering down. Imagine yourself in an open jeep cutting through tracks in search of that elusive animal. Imagine the dark corridors inside the park where the vegetation is so dense that sunrays can barely filter through. Imagine a pack of elephants sauntering by waterholes.
The Periyar National Park lends fame to Thekkady where you can stumble upon thatched cottages with an elephant grass mop that look exactly like the dwellings of the local Oorali and Mannan tribals. Barely 5 km away is Murikkady,known for its spice and coffee plantation. You can hop onto an elephant and do a spice plantation tour or chop your oars through the placid waters of the Periyar Lake,designed by British engineer Colonel J Pennycuick. The rainy season is the best time to drive to Chellar Kovil to watch the waterfalls frothing down burly mountains. Or lace your sneakers,unfurl the umbrella and trek around. That itself is worth a visit.
If wildlife is not your passion or if it is pouring outside,spend time at the Spice Village Resort to slough off malice from the body and soul. Remember,no chemicals here,everything is done naturally. A rice bolus exfoliates,nourishes,moisturises and tightens your skin. But this is no ordinary rice,it is njavara rice that is harvested in 90 days normally,paddy is harvested in 120 days; it is brown and its grains medium-sized. The medicinal grain is cooked into a thick consistency with a herbal potion,wrapped in a cotton cloth and dipped in another hot milk and herbal concoction. Its then pummeled over the skin for nearly 80 minutes. In Ayurveda,Njavara theppu has been used to treat medical problems like arthritis,but it is also a surefire trick to a radiant skin. That is one of the tricks for the beautiful you in Thekkady.
Getting there:
The airports are Madurai 140 km and Kochi 185 km. The nearest railway station is Kumarakom 114 km. Take a cab from the airport/station for Thekkady.
Where to stay:
You can stay in government-run hotels like Aranya Niwas and Periyar House tariff: Rs 700 upwards per night; the upscale options are Spice Village tariff: Rs 4,700 upwards per night and Taj Garden Retreat tariff: Rs 1,700 upwards per night. Go to http://www.thekkady.net for details.
Preeti Verma Lal