Water Vote

The seat of Dravidian culture, the venue of ancient scholarly debates that ranked Tamil among the foremost classical languages of the world, Madurai is a beehive of frenetic activity. It8217;s one continuous marketplace 8212; Hindu religious icons vying for space with shops selling everything from sweets to sanitaryware, crowded choultries lodges housing a never-ending stream of devotees, and above all, a city that is so caught up in the business of faith that it can8217;t even recognise itself. This kitschy melange of colour and free spirit has now been transported to the poll arena in unabashed celebration of the Great Indian Vote. Campaigning is coming to a head for the contest between sitting MP P. Mohan of the CPIM, AIADMK8217;s A.K. Bose and, of course, the unstoppable Janata Party president, Subramanian Swamy. In this temple town, the poll juggernaut is on a roll.

At times, it is dirty: the last visit by PMK founder S. Ramadoss was marked by violence; the Democratic Progressive Alliance DPA blamed the ADMK and the police for it. At times, filmi: with Rajnikant asking fans not to back PMK candidates and then saying he would vote for the BJP but they were free to choose. And at times, downright ridiculous: Jayalalithaa promptly sacking an over-enthusiastic party secretary for putting up the superstar8217;s poster next to wall paintings of her and MGR.

But the most politically significant development to come alive before us was the Central POTA Review Committee8217;s ruling that there was no case against Vaiko and eight others for being jailed for 19 months. 8216;8216;I have full confidence in the judiciary and this is a victory for the right to freedom of speech,8217;8217; said the MDMK general secretary as the news reached him while campaigning in a remote hamlet in Palani.

A huge boost for the alliance and yet another blow for Jayalalithaa. But not surprisingly, no one in the AIADMK is talking, least of all the candidates, not even to save face by raking up what Vaiko had said about his sympathy for Tamils and the LTTE at a public meeting in Tirumangalam. May be that8217;s why the loudspeakers are on full blast at DPA rallies.

At Dindugul, 20 km from here, speaker after speaker rubbished the 8216;8216;Amma regime8217;8217; for not doing enough to solve the drinking water crisis. 8216;8216;It is this that binds us together. We are all united against Jayalalithaa,8217;8217; said Congress worker Jaychandran. 8216;8216;We would like to bury the past,8217;8217; PMK8217;s Sivakumar said on his party8217;s ties with the Congress that linked them to Rajiv Gandhi8217;s killers.

From Tirunelveli, the 150-km ride to Madurai was uneventful but the toughest so far because of soaring temperatures and humidity. If Vajpayee8217;s pictures on the hoardings across the highway were covered with plastic sheets in the earlier stretch, by the time we reached Tirunelveli, someone had already filed a PIL in the Madras High Court.

On way to Dindigul, we spotted a few gardens that keep up the daily supply at the bustling flower market near the Madurai temple. A labyrinthine pathway led us to the second floor where heaps of jasmine and marigold were being sold in kilos. Short-stemmed roses were for Rs 20 a kg, which is nearly 250 pieces. So, the next time a civil aviation ministry babu buys flowers for the house Rs 10 a rose in New Delhi, Rs 5 in Pune may be he8217;ll give serious thought to Madurai8217;s longstanding demand for more flights out of the city.

So far so good. That8217;s because, economically, Madurai has been on the decline over the years. On busy South Masi Street, traders pray at temples and mosques that are next to each other and though business seems moderate 8212; going by the crowds at steel utensil shops 8212; the real problem lies in the lack of a major industry for sustenance. Once known for its cotton saris, the city8217;s handloom industry is in dire straits as it is unable to source yarn at affordable prices. No wonder, the handloom cooperative shop next to the temple North Gate was selling saris at half price.

Here8217;s where Swamy counts. Back from Harvard after his half-yearly stint, he believes there is something in this election for him. 8216;8216;Basically, Tamil Nadu needs national integration. I want TN to become more active in national politics. There are 40 MPs including Pondy and they have no role.8217;8217; Why will his I-am-your-man-in-Delhi pitch work? 8216;8216;Because the choice is between a Dravidian cinema culture and a national political culture. I chose the second.8217;8217;

Is that why he isn8217;t with Jayalalithaa? 8216;8216;Yes, I had to break free from this Dravidian polarisation. I had to do this alone.8217;8217;

But the answer to what will finally decide the outcome of this crucial election can perhaps be found in the parched riverbed of the Vaigai that cuts through the holy town. The people of Tamil Nadu want water, only water.