Past Perfect, Present Continuous

Understated elegance is the hallmark of this colonial bungalow, that tricks you into thinking you own the place. Welcome to the mansion that Captain Barr built 154 years ago.

AFTER ALMOST AN hour8217;s trudge through the thickly foliaged pathways of Matheran, Asia8217;s only pedestrian hill station nestled in the Sahyadris, the growth suddenly clears to reveal two pillars with the words Barr House plainly inscribed on them.

Walk up the path between the pillars and the majestic colonial mansion looms, the weekend retreat that British soldier Captain Barr built for his family 154 years ago. While someone checks your booking, you rest your feet on the wooden planter8217;s chairs and sip some fresh lime juice and savour the view of the forest ahead. Evening tea is being laid, the tinkling of the silver the only sound in the air. The aroma of freshly baked muffins and cookies drifts towards you8230;.

Time has indeed stood still at Barr House8212; that has regally withstood the transformation of Matheran from a quiet summer retreat to a bustling commercial hill station. Even today it8217;s popularly known by its former title, rather than the name the Neemrana hotel group bestowed on it8212;The Verandah in the Forest8212; after they bought the property and converted it into a 8220;non-hotel hotel8221; in 2002.

The long verandah, its coloured tiled floor punctuated with wooden chairs and even an ancient hand-pulled rickshaw, is the place most frequented by guests, to lounge about, nap, or just peer into the forest. Six suites oc-cupy the first floor, with five at the garden level below. The rooms are havens of four-poster beds and ancient cupboards. No telephone, no television and even your mobile phone sighs into a no-signal mode.

The Verandah is the last hotel in Matheran, with just Charlotte Lake further on. And while a 15-minute walk in either direction will take you to the market or the lake, most guests prefer to stay in the hotel in the evenings at least, alter- nating between leafing through the coffee-table books in the charming living room with its 36-feet-high paneled ceiling, play Scrabble or listen to a CD of Pandit Ravi Shankar or Bach. And then there is the delightful walk in the gardens after dinner with the bungalow lit up by fairy lights. You can meander your way to the hammocks or climb up to the tree house or just revel in the sound of the crickets.

But perhaps the best part about the place is that it leaves you alone to be yourself. No offi- cious waiters, no pernickety housekeeping8212; the aromas that float here are more of ginger, rose, chandan. You begin calling the staff by their first names, ask the cook to make a cer-tain dish and think nothing of walking out of your room in your pyjamas in the morning to pick up a cup of tea from the table outside and perch yourself atop a chair in the verandah to watch the early morning sun.

And silently bless the owners for keeping the soul of the place intact.

Sunanda Mehta

Sunanda Mehta is the Resident Editor of The Indian Express in Pune. She is a distinguished journalist, columnist, and author with over three decades of experience in the media industry. Educational background: A merit-lister in her 12 th in CBSE (5th rank in Humanities) Sunanda stood first in History in the Board for which she was awarded the Dr Tarachand Gold Medal. She is a triple-graduate with a Bachelor of Arts (History Honours) from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, Bachelor of Education, Delhi University (on scholarship) and Bachelor of Communication and Journalism, University of Pune. Professional Background Role: As Resident Editor, she oversees the Pune edition of The Indian Express, managing local news coverage, investigative features, and editorial direction for the city. Author: She is an accomplished author, known for her biographies. Her notable books include: The Extraordinary Life and Death of Sunanda Pushkar published by Pan Macmillan (2019). The book was long-listed for the Atta Galatta award for nonfiction and Auther award for best debut author. Majestic Musings - Translation of poems from 100 year old Badshaian from Punjabi to English (2023) Behind the Big Screen- the untold stories of child actors published by Bloomsbury India (2024) Focus Areas: While Sunanda has reported on various subjects from civic to political to investigative and crime, her forte remains long-form human-interest stories, heritage and gender issues. Core Column: "Against All Odds" Sunanda curates and writes a signature series titled "Against All Odds," which profiles individuals who have overcome significant personal, medical, or professional challenges. Recent notable articles (2025) The Story of Dr. Harinder Dhaliwal (July 2025): A Pune AFMC topper who became a neurologist in Canada despite becoming paraplegic. Jayoo Patwardhan’s Cancer Journey (Jan 2025): How the National Film Award-winning designer defeated cancer. Partha Iyengar’s Emergency mid-air (Aug 2025): The story of how Gartner’s India head survived a massive heart attack during a long-haul flight. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent reportage continues to explore deep personal narratives and Pune’s socio-environmental landscape: 1. Personal Narratives & Closure "'I grieved for him 10 years after his murder, found closure to unsolved case'" (Dec 14, 2025): A poignant feature on Vineet Alurkar, son of the late Pune music legend Suresh Alurkar, and how digitizing his father’s collection helped him heal. "A 40-day journey home: how Christopher Benninger's partner gave him the gift of memories" (Nov 23, 2025): A moving tribute to the late acclaimed architect Christopher Benninger and his final trip to the US. "'After 38 years I finally met my biological mother'" (Sept 28, 2025): Chronicling the journey of an adopted daughter from Zurich searching for her roots in Pune. 2. Civic & Heritage "'Vetal Tekdi belongs to common citizens'" (Oct 20, 2025): An interview with environmental activist Dr. Sushma Date on the community-led protection of Pune’s vital green lungs. "'Military village' Apshinge recalls living through war days" (Aug 12, 2025): A report from a village in Maharashtra where nearly every household has a member in the armed forces, focusing on their legacy and current anxieties. 3. High-Profile Commentary & Investigations "Malegaon blast acquittals: 'I was expecting this verdict'" (July 31, 2025): An interview with former special public prosecutor Rohini Salian following the controversial acquittals. "Grounded, license cancelled... she decided to soar higher" (March 30, 2025): The story of Dr. Harpreet A De Singh, Air India’s first woman pilot from 1988, and her transition to leadership and meditation. Signature Style Sunanda Mehta is known for her empathetic storytelling. Unlike standard news reporting, her features often read like narrative non-fiction, focusing on the psychological and emotional resilience of her subjects. One of her articles in The Indian Express titled 'The Quality of Mercy' was converted into a film Rubaru Roshini produced by actor Aamir Khan. She is a strong advocate for Pune's heritage and environment, frequently using her platform to amplify citizen-led movements. X (Twitter): @sunandamehta and @ExpressPune ... Read More