Happier stopover

It could be that we have been spoiled. In India we grow up so cradled in remains of past grandeur and achievement that the coexistence of ce...

It could be that we have been spoiled. In India we grow up so cradled in remains of past grandeur and achievement that the coexistence of centuries is taken for granted. There can be no other charitable reason for the pathetic health of our heritage, for neglect of archaeological sites being the lone thread of civilisational unity in India today. Over the last ten days, this newspaper has roamed through just the most famous and visited among this country8217;s monuments 8212; from the Taj Mahal to Hampi, from the Elephanta caves to Khajuraho8217;s Chandela temples. During this journey, only the administration of Ajanta-Ellora provides some cause for hope. Administrators of our other heritage sites should be taken on a tour of these ancient caves for an education they seemed to have missed.

Look around the landmarks in your own towns and cities, and chances are the story8217;s the same everywhere: neglect of basic principles of restoration, rampant encroachment, obfuscatory labelling, uninformed guides. At a time when tourism 8212; both domestic and international 8212; is the fastest growing sector, this neglect hinders India from leveraging its greatest assets. This, of course, deprives the country of considerable revenue and the economic spinoffs of tourism that could accrue in the hospitality and handicrafts sectors. Take the Great Sanchi Stupa. This third century BC site, as splendorous as any other marvel of antiquity, receives just 80,000 visitors each year. Compare that with Angkor Wat8217;s half a million annual visitors 8212; and Luxor8217;s 50,000 a day during peak season 8212; and India8217;s monumental apathy becomes clear.

It is not just a question of revenue. Civilisations give a telling account of themselves by the manner in which they care for their heritage. By tending the remains from the past, they brace themselves for a fierce engagement with the grand sweeps and complexities of history. How, for instance, did Hampi 8212; once said to be the most splendid city on earth 8212; decline into ruin? An India in denial of its archaeological wealth will certainly not be able to muster much understanding of its past.