Dateline

"The problem in some way can be compared to the problems in Kashmir. There is terrorism in Kashmir and both the security forces and the terrorists are being killed. Similarly we have trouble in the north and in the east where both the security forces and the terrorists are being killed. But how would you like people writing India is burning and Delhi is not safe to visit because of a bomb attack in Srinagar?" one of my new-found friends asked. "We are hurt by the image of Sri Lanka in flames," she said. "There is no trouble here in Colombo or down south anywhere. And like there are blasts in Delhi, there are blasts in Colombo," she continued drawing parallels.

Our entire group comprising journalists, defence personnel and academics was also taken for sightseeing. Of course, the maximum time we spent at any "spot" was the Sri Lankan White House where an assassination attempt was made on President Chandrika Kumaratunga. "Typical journalists," our tour guide scorned, again urging us repeatedly notto write anything that would harm the prospects of tourism and her business.

We spent an evening at an impressive shopping mall where most of us were trying to pick up trinkets and souvenirs. Ceylon tea is considered to be among the best in the world and I wanted to buy some. But there were hundreds of kinds of tea: orange, lemon, mango, vanilla flavoured tea, leaf tea, this tea and that tea. It was all so confusing.

An elderly gentleman tapped me on the shoulder. "Are you a tourist?" he asked. I nodded. "Don’t go for pricey or flavoured tea unless you have been asked to get that. I’ll help you select good tea," he said. And then keeping his groceries aside, he bent down and picked out some packets. "The flavour should linger in your throat. Take some packets of strong and some of light tea. These are good and not too expensive," he said. He asked where all we had seen in Sri Lanka and penned down a list of places that were a must see."Sri Lanka’s a good place to see. And not too expensive either, exceptof course the airfare. It has beaches, hills, nice people, history and lots of good places to see," he said and after a few minutes he was gone.

The official at the customs counter on our way back to Delhi once again was thorough with the checking. "You are taking half of Sri Lanka with you," he said. "Journalist? Please don’t write about terrorism in Sri Lanka," he warned, waving me through.

On the flight back I wondered how long would it take us Indians to realise that it is not just the government’s job to promote tourism but also the people’s, and when will our customs and immigration officials learn to smile. When I reached Delhi, there they were frowning as furiously as they had been when I had left them a week ago.