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This is an archive article published on April 26, 2010

Combo meal

Four tables, one gruff middle-aged man, a blaring TV screen and a small kitchen counter is what greets you as you enter the tiny Russian restaurant named after a pancake, Bline...

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The owner of this Russian restaurant in Anand Niketan serves films as a side dish

Four tables, one gruff middle-aged man, a blaring TV screen and a small kitchen counter is what greets you as you enter the tiny Russian restaurant named after a pancake, Bline, (pronounced blee-ney.) And with your borscht, a dish with tender pieces of meat in beetroot stew, you can get a generous helping of Russian cinema at this quaint eatery at Anand Niketan in south Delhi.

But it wasn’t just the food that we were interested in. What caught our attention was the television set. It was not an antique nor the latest model but it was all about what was playing on it. “I play Russian movies here for those who want to watch. The Russian customers love watching them. Indians like watching cricket, and then it is cricket or whatever they want to watch,” says Alexander Melnikov, the owner of Bline who has spent the last seven years in the city.

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“I don’t know why you are asking me about movies,” Melnikov scoffs. Now it is not so hard to imagine the Russians being part of the Cold War, the statement was icy enough to freeze you in the Delhi heat. But we had a reason to ask — a table lined with Russian movie VHS tapes and DVDs just below the now famous TV in the restaurant.

But diplomatic situations need a diplomatic approach. So after that not so warm answer, we had to just get back to asking about things related to food. The answers got warmer with every question on the cold cured eggplant salad, the borscht, the mutton cutlets and Russian momos. Then we went at the movies again. Melnikov gave up on us. “They are comedy, thriller and romantic movies. Different kinds. My friends from Russia get me these films since I can’t buy any Russian movies here in Delhi.” Taking a break again from all the movie talk, Melnikov mentions his love for channa batura. He loves other Indian food too, but not south Indian food. “I am strictly non vegetarian,” he explains.

Melnikov has family in Moscow, his mother and sister stay there while his daughters Christina and Kareina live in Vietnam and Moscow respectively. Melnikov lives in Delhi with his wife, at a place he points in the direction of the kitchen, “Just here in Anand Niketan.”

Okay. Now can we talk about movies again? “I like Bollywood films, but I haven’t seen many. My wife and I go around the city on Tuesdays, when we are shut and check out other restaurants in the city. It is nice to see the variety that is available,” Melnikov is now smiling. Definitely a good sign, but we are not gaining much on the Russian movie trivia section. Maybe we should have known better. This is a great place for food. The films are a side dish.

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“I love cricket,” says Melnikov, who by now is secretly hoping we stop prodding him about Russian cinema. We get the message. Melnikov just likes his food to do the talking, so we leave Bline while the TV shows Maria Sharapova returning a serve at Wimbledon.

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