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This is an archive article published on February 8, 2004

14 Beds to Wake Up In

The Orchard Retreat,ThanedarEighty km from Shimla is a tiny lodge that takes only seven couples at a time. The Orchard Retreat was once vill...

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The Orchard Retreat,
Thanedar
Eighty km from Shimla is a tiny lodge that takes only seven couples at a time. The Orchard Retreat was once village headman Prakash Thakur’s home; now he runs the place and doubles up as its resident mine of local info. It’s not five-star luxury, but which five-star window opens out to treetops, birdsong and misty mountains? No two rooms are the same, so if you have a yen for romance, go for the four-poster bed hung with pretty chintz prints. Snuggle into the plush mattress, pull up the generously piled-up blankets, and switch off the lights.

COSTS: Rs 2,600 for two per day, including meals
CONTACT: Call 011-6861397

Pousada Tauma,
Calangute
In a corner of hippy Goa, less than a km from the beach, is Pousada Tauma, a lush boutique hotel with 12 themed suites.

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While the standard and superior rooms boast of built-in beds, the deluxe suites offer the pieces de resistance: two utterly decadent old Goa beds of metal and heavy burnished teak. All the beds have spongy coir and cotton mattresses and a choice of feather or Dunlop pillows. ‘‘No water mattresses or satin pillowcases,’’ says owner Neville Proencia.

COSTS: Varies from Rs 4,800 to Rs 15,000, depending on the season. Taxes/meals extra.
CONTACT: Call 0832-2279061/2/3 or fax 0832-2279064

The Taj Garden Retreat,
Coonoor
Canoodling couples and tea/coffee drinkers are advised to pack up for this tiny town in the Nilgiris. Roam through the tea estates with sloping-roof cottages, amble around the 19th century Sims Park, take a trip to Droog Fort (once the Mysore Tiger’s outpost) through the famous Nonsuch tea estate, pop down to Wellington for a dekko at the gorgeous golf course and revive your romance with the famous Ooty chocolates…

And yes, stay at the colonial Taj Garden Retreat with beds you sink right into. Maybe not what the doc ordered for a bad back, but ohsocomfy.

COSTS: From Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,995
CONTACT: Call 0423-2230021/42

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The Brunton Boatyard,
Fort Kochi
In the former colonial port, The Brunton Boatyard keeps the Portuguese memories alive. The lobby is framed by arches and set with ancient punkahs. Despite the abundance of light and space, the hotel manages an intimate atmosphere. And if big, bigger, biggest is your bedroom anthem, you can’t go wrong with the beds here. The hotel has four king-size beds, 14 demure queen-size ones, and eight twin beds, all carved out of the finest Kerala teak and rosewood. Linen’s pure cotton from Gopalapuram, Chennai, the mattresses spongy foam, and the blankets at the bottom of the bed are pure wool.

COSTS: Standard rooms go for Rs 8,500 till April 30, and then for Rs 5,000, plus taxes. The deluxe suite is Rs 12,000, slashed to Rs 8,250 in the off-season. Breakfast thrown in.
CONTACT: Call 0484-2668221, 2666821 or fax 0484-2668001

Mount ResortKhali Estate,
Binsar
For peace and solitude by the truckloads, go to Binsar, a protected sanctuary with all of two places to stay in. With over 150 bird species, and one solitary leopard who refuses to give darshan, it makes sense to pally up with Raju Guide and get him to take you around. Don’t miss the sunrise at Zero Point, it’s barely 25 km from the Himalayas as the crow flies and affords a stunning view of a 350-km mountain vista.

And when all the walking gets too much, make your way to your wood-floored stone cottage at the resort. While the beds here are standard affairs, the atmosphere is bound to light the fire.

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COSTS: Rs 1,375 per person per day, including meals
CONTACT: Call 05962-251011

Aman-i-Khas,
Ranthambore
The latest offshoot of Aman Resorts offers single or double occupancy in six luxury, air-conditioned tents with ‘rooms’ separated by cotton drapes. Entry to the tents is through a screened area with an armchair and a dining table with chairs. The bathing area includes a shower, soaking tub and separate toilet whilst the dressing area contains the cupboards and twin vanities. The beds are as lavish, so expect not one, but two sprawling treats. One, under a six-meter canopy, is for daytime lounging; the other a double king-size bed crafted out of teakwood and wrapped in signature linen. Choose between foam and feather pillows.

COSTS: Rs 103,000 (approx) plus 20 per cent tax for a night at Delhi’s Manor and three nights at the camp.
CONTACT: Call 0746-2252052/2178 or e-mail aman-I-khas@manresorts.com

Kalmatia Sangam,
Almora
A hop away from Almora proper, the Kalmatia Sangam Himalaya Resort offers sweeping views of both the valleys and heights. The cosy individual cottages provide pride of place to deliciously low beds done up in wrought-iron and light wood. We suggest you succumb to one of the relaxing massages on offer, there’s no better agent provocateur.

COSTS: Rs 5,400, including meals
CONTACT: Call 05962-233625

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Forest/Tourist Rest House,
Nubra Valley
Imagine a bed (standard fare) up in the icy heights of Ladakh warmed by a hot spring that lies a little above a hot water spring. Convert imagination to reality by heading to the Tourist Rest House at Panamik in the Nubra Valley. Or try the Forest Rest House at Hunder, an hour or so from Panamik, which provides you with bedroom window views pricier spots could kill for. Bookings have to be made in advance, but are worth every call you make.

COSTS: Rs 200-350 per room
CONTACT: Call the J&K Tourism Department at 011-23345373 or reach them at 01982-252297 in Leh

Sheesh Mahal,
Orchha
A former Bundela stronghold around three hours from Khajuraho, Orchha, by the Betwa river, still sleeps dreaming of times past and is younger than its ruins make it look. Spend your nights at the Sheesh Mahal, in the Jahangir Palace complex, watching the rain lash the low lying hills from your balcony. The Royal Suite offers old-world style beds and divans tucked into window alcoves.

COSTS: Rs 3,609 for double occupancy, Rs 2,990 in the off-season.
CONTACT: Telefax 07680 252624

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Cloud End,
Mussoorie
Just seven km above Mussoorie lies Cloud End. Once an old Raj home, it has now been lovingly renovated and furbished by current owner Digvijay Singh. With no electric supply, Cloud End operates on a generator, which it runs for a few hours every evening. But the creaky wood flooring and walls in the cosy log huts light up with an almost mystical glow in the candlelight and the heavy quilts in their gleaming white covers are an invitation to sheer pleasure. Kick back with a drink over the bonfire (BYOB and cigarettes), head back to your room, leave the curtains open, and look out over the silent valley.

COSTS: From Rs 300-Rs 2,800
CONTACT: Call 0135-2632242

Captans,
Lonavla
This small, family-run boutique hotel, 100 km from Mumbai and 70 from Pune, perched on the Western Ghats off Lonavla, is as fine a place to seek solitude for two as any in the country. Stay in the semi-detached row houses or opt for the expansive colonial architecture-inspired deluxe suites with Japanese style teakwood beds, and wide windows that bring in the sights, smells and sounds of the Ghats.

COSTS: Deluxe suites go for Rs 4,500. The cottages are priced at Rs 2,500 (for two, including meals) and tents at Rs 650 (per head).
CONTACT: Call 2114-271313 or
e-mail captans@vsnl.net

Rukmini Island,
Dibrugarh
An hour by ferry from Dibrugarh takes you to Rukmini, a riverine island on the mighty Brahmaputra. The two of you can either lotus eat or opt for pleasurable exertions like parasailing or ski-boarding. Suitably thrilled, retire to your tents, wash up in attached baths and plop into clean, comfy, beds. And flow with the river in your dreams.

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COSTS: Rs 3,000 a night for deluxe tents, inclusive of transfers, food and non-alcoholic beverages
Contact: Call Ranjit Das on 0373-2301120

Nalagarh Fort
Himachal Pradesh
Slip into the past at the over 500-year-old Nalagarh Fort located at a height of 1,400 metres, and an hour’s drive from Chandigarh. If the views from the top are calming, the rooms too, with antique furniture and sepia portraits, are blue-blooded, like its former occupants. Choose from a range of king-sized four-posters with gossamer nets, ornate carvings, and fancy mirrors straight out of period romances. We recommend one with a net and lace-edged pillow covers teamed with Jaipuri rajais.

COSTS: A room goes for Rs 2,000, while a suite costs Rs 5,900
CONTACT: Call 011-24634139/ 24690741 or e-mail jayat@del3.vsnl.net.in

Prakruti Hermitage,
Kashid
Sun-kissed beaches, the blue sea and neat cottages—the Prakruti Hermitage offers all this as well as rejuvenating steam baths, beach parties and barbecues. Framed by the hills of Janjira, the resort is located in Kashid, 130 km from Mumbai. The commodious beds with white Solapur woven bedsheets ensure that romance is just a heartbeat away.

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Costs: A three bedroom villa costs Rs 6,000 a day plus Rs 500 per meal per person. There’s a five per cent service charge on weekends/holidays.
Contact: 2557 7881/25514294
e-mail prakruti@bom8.vsnl.net.in

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