Nitya Bajaj, co-founder of a Delhi-based eponymous label started in 2012, is being lauded for her costume design efforts in the Telugu action film Devara Part 1’s Daavudi song featuring Jr NTR and Jahnvi Kapoor. “It’s been a great learning experience for me and the brand. Understanding scenes, their continuity, art direction, and colours on the screen has been wonderful,” she said in an exclusive interaction with indianexpress.com.
The designs for the stars
The song’s concept revolves around a dream sequence featuring the lead pair set in a simple village backdrop. “The characters imagine their glamorous avatars, so Janhvi‘s outfits were re-envisioned as dazzling, princess-like versions of everyday village wear. To complement the heavy beats and bold choreography, her look was enhanced with a sari-inspired asymmetric skirt, accentuating her hip line and allowing fluid leg movement. We added cowls and drapery to create a sensual, goddess-like aesthetic, reimagining her as a glam princess with a mermaid-like silhouette in a coastal village,” explained Bajaj, 38.
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On the other hand, Jr NTR sports dhoti pants with layered cowls, paired with embellished belts for added depth. “The fabrics—Modal satin, Mashru silk, organic cotton, and jute—create a rich yet breathable aesthetic. Sea elements like pearls, shells, aquamarine beads, and silver ornamentation add coastal charm, while Ajrakh prints with palm leaf patterns and floral motifs reflect the director’s vision,” said Bajaj.
The designing process
The design process, starting with the concept, set design, and colour choices, progressed through sketches, sourcing, colour approvals, and embroidery fittings—all within a tight deadline. Bajaj said, “It was challenging with multiple approval levels, but we enjoyed the journey, especially for Janhvi and Jr NTR.”
Known for her innovative work with Ajrakh, Bajaj also said, “We reimagine Ajrakh in contemporary silhouettes while preserving its authenticity. Our label proudly supports resist-printers and their clusters, helping bring their craft to a modern audience.”
Talking about working with Kapoor, Bajaj said, “Janhvi Kapoor is blessed with a great body. It’s a designer’s dream to designfor her. Her style team guided us to silhouettes that suited her frame. She has made me fall in love with Ajrakh like never before.”
Janhvi Kapoor with Jr NTR in the Daavudi song (Source: PR Handout)
New work
Bajaj recently introduced her first-ever Ajrakh menswear collection, featuring festive kurtas, bandi jackets, and sherwanis. “My team and I are happy to take small steps this festive season to support the craft of Ajrakh and introduce it to the world like never before. I’m looking forward to many more online and offline representations for the brand where we make this craft a fashion statement,” said Bajaj.
According to Bajaj, costumes have become more refined, more detailed, and more modern in today’s times. “It is not gimmicky anymore. Colours are mature, embroideries are rich as everything shows on the screen, from face wrinkles to a pure zari! I am happy to see practicality creeping into costume-making and glamorous re-interpretations. Importance is also given to background artists to compliment the main cast, who were initially ignored,” said Bajaj.
Jayashree Narayanan writes on fitness, health, aviation safety, food, culture and everything lifestyle. She is an alumnus of AJKMCRC, Jamia Millia Islamia and Kamala Nehru College, University of Delhi ... Read More