Five designers on the colours, cuts and weaves that will make you stand out this season

This summer you will see very boxy, oversized and roomy silhouettes.

On fabrics

I have been working on renewing and restoring the original Ajrakh printing with natural dyes (though some are using chemical colours), drawing inspiration from onion peels, barks of various trees, curcumin, different flowers and vegetables. We have created our own blocks and colour combinations on high-quality silks and fine cotton.

I also want to work at reviving what was Bangladeshi muslin.

On colours

My pick for this season is a slightly muted but earthy palette of reds, moss greens, ivory, muddy greys and blues.

After COVID, there has been a huge shift to the “relaxed” space.

On silhouettes

After COVID, there has been a huge shift to the “relaxed” space. This summer you will see very boxy, oversized and roomy silhouettes. We are working on a complete range of oversized shirts, kurtas, tunics and crossover variations of these paired with roomy pajamas, pants and culottes, with some summer trenches and over-shirts.

ANEETH ARORA, PERO

On fabrics

Summer at Pero means flowers and light fabrics like mulmuls and Chanderi, interspersed with a lot of whites.

On colours

It’s the vibrant Indian summer colours that inspire our creations every season. I am going for flowers, fruits like mangoes, lychees and, in fact, even the colourful sherbets. I am mixing these happy hues with whites.

SAMANT CHAUHAN

The tiny woven squares (khat) are still hand-woven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near Kota.

On fabrics

I work with handwoven fabrics. So apart from Bhagalpuri silk and cotton, I prefer breathable fabrics like mul and Kota. As a summer fabric, Kota is the best as it sits easy on the skin and keeps you cool.

The tiny woven squares (khat) are still hand-woven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near Kota and some of the surrounding villages. I am experimenting with various weaves and working on various processes from the yarn stage.

On silhouettes

I keep to simple, clean-cut and basic lines but the sari has got to be the best summer silhouette we have, easy and flowing. It is one of the reasons that I never use drapes. There’s something that is casual and elegant about the sari’s flowing nature and swish.

There are floral prints and textures.

On colour and embellishments

I like vibrant earth colours but this season you will see a lot of turquoise. I get inspired by architecture and folk paintings that reflect on my motifs. Other than that, there are floral prints and textures. I am staying away from metallics this season and going for the self-embossed look with threadwork on cotton. Embroidery is shaping the contours of my craft this season.

VARUN BAHL

Bold floral prints, highlighted with intricate detailing, threadwork, beaded embroidery and sequins.

On fabrics

My Midsummer Love collection derives inspiration from sunshine, scenic locales across India and the season’s aroma. I have used fabrics like georgette and chiffon for a comforting fit.

On colours and embellishments

I would say a combination of yellow and grey, green and mustard, peach and red. Hand-crafted embellishments are in. Bold floral prints, highlighted with intricate detailing, threadwork, beaded embroidery and sequins.

Go for saris, dresses, coordinated sets and tunics.

On silhouettes

It’s relaxed, easy-breezy and flamboyant. Go for saris, dresses, coordinated sets and tunics. Go fuss-free.

MAYYUR GIROTRA

On inspirations for a summer bride

Since Turkey tops holiday choices of Indians these days, my couture collection this season draws a lot from Turkey, particularly the stories, colours, culture, patterns and history of Istanbul and Cappadocia. I have archived images from my travels and let them seep into my imagination.

On fabrics

My fabrics are so lightweight, fun and breathable that brides can run marathons in them. They are thickly adorned with embellishment but while they enhance the look and feel, they do not weigh you down.

On silhouettes

I believe in the classic saris and the long kurtas, old authentic gararas, lehengas — nothing can be better for a bridal summer.