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This is an archive article published on January 26, 2011

Square peg in a round hole

He sits with a distracted mind,his eye constantly taking in all the colour and cuts of the clothes.

In the city for the launch of a multi-designer store,designer Hemant Trevedi flaunted his style of ‘keeping it real’

He sits with a distracted mind,his eye constantly taking in all the colour and cuts of the clothes. He squints through his specs,sitting firmly on his nose,and then his eyes widen. “That is beauty,” he says,pointing to the tanned woman in a simple yellow saree serving chai to the multitudes gathered at the new multi-designer store launched in the city on Saturday. She’s oblivious to the comments. But designer Hemant Trevedi is transfixed. “To take simplicity like that and transform it into beauty with my clothes is what my aim has been and continues to be. I don’t need a Bollywood-someone,” says this ace stylist and designer,who is a name that the Indian fashion industry has been proud of for the last 25-30 years.

When Trevedi stepped into the fashion industry in the 1970s,it was a time when dads wouldn’t even think of their sons entering this profession. He graduated from the Australian Technical Institute of Fashion Design and further perfected his skills at the Fashion Institute of Technology,New York. This first professionally qualified designer of the country then immersed himself in sharing his knowledge and expertise with students at the SNDT University,Mumbai. He also became Fashion Director of design store – Sheetal. “I struggled. I kept at it. And that’s how I formed the first design studio of the country,” he says. Back then,multi-designer stores were a thing of the future. “But,even at that time,in the early 80s,I got together with six of my award-winning students to start the design studio akin to a multi-designer store of today,” he says,his experience not once over-stepping the line of modesty. The store launched in Pune has designs by some of his students. “To see them achieving success is the biggest fashion high,” he says as he looks on at the young designers he has mentored.

His attitude is matter-of-fact,his success an attribution to hard work. “I must be doing something right to have survived so many young designers,some of whom have remained and sustained,others who’ve disappeared after a short run,” he shrugs. He looks down at his feet,assured that they are firmly on the ground,and continues,“I don’t create clothes for the media,for a photo shoot or for shock value. Real people want to wear real clothes and I give them that. And that is why,whoever wears a Hemant Trevedi feels special even today.”

The creative world for designers has no bounds. “But I can’t be unreal. Like,for men,you just have to put their legs into tubes. What more? I can’t make men wear skirts or ghagras like other designers. No way. I’m not a fashion whore!” he says,amused by what lengths others of his fraternity can go to,to make news. Prod him for names,but you get none,just a quirky smile. “I never want to lose myself. I could have started multiple Hemant Trevedi stores,or I could design for the Indian film industry. But I didn’t and won’t. I want to be real. Yes,I’m weird. I’m a square peg in a round hole. But that has helped me survive.”

While Trevedi’s designs become trends because of their “real,wearable quality”,he grimaces when one mentions ‘spring/summer’ or ‘autumn/winter’. “I don’t know what ‘spring/summer’ is. We just have hot weather,wet weather and cool weather,” he says,adding,almost as an appeal to everyone,“Ask me what I see as the USP of Indian fashion. It’s our hand craftsmanship. And right now,China is our biggest competition. Today,it will be very sad if China can produce Banarasi sarees at a cheaper price than Banaras. We need to focus more on our craft.” And he has devoted himself to that,firmly and quietly. “It took me five years to bounce back after my car accident in 2000,but I did. Maybe not with a bang,but silently and successfully,” he smiles.

He is pleased with the growth of individualism in the recent years. “Today,clients don’t want to be dictated to by mad designers. Everyone has become more individualistic. Look around you,” he says,his eye taking in the diversity of people. Ask him what he doesn’t approve of in the current fashion world and he says,“The multiple fashion weeks in every city. It is diluting the whole principle of a fashion week. Do you see this happening in the fashion capitals of the world? No. These city fashion weeks are nothing but publicity stunts by the organisers.”


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