Table Fresh

This development is a small step,but isn’t yet a substantial change in the sourcing model,such as serving daily specials using only fresh ingredients delivered that morning. That model would greatly benefit consumers as,from the moment a vegetable is harvested,it begins degenerating and refrigeration simply slows this down. Thus,serving dishes made using only fresh,seasonal produce delivers a product that is higher in quality and incorporates few or no preservatives. “Visiting the source is the first step. The next would be more about sustainability,where I set up a farm and I serve dishes as per what’s fresh from my farm,” says Ratnani.

Ubai Husein,a former chef,is already pursuing such a model of sustenance farming but focuses on the organic aspect. When he discovered that there was no reliable supply of organic produce for a café he had planned,he decided to use his family’s vacant land in Bhiwandi to grow produce himself. “I am firmly of the belief that consumers should have an equal stake in farm products.” Husain is contemplating various supply models,such as making consumers visit farms to buy produce while he demonstrates how best to cook organic food to retain its nutrients.

Ratnani,though,pragmatically accepts that Aurus has to serve certain dishes throughout the year regardless of freshness of ingredients. On our drive to Nasik to visit farmers that specialise in asparagus and broccoli,Ratnani tells us about duck and trout farms he has visited. “These visits allow me to observe farming conditions. It also builds relationships with the producers and gives them credit; they,in turn,give me their best produce”.

Subhash Deshmukh and Narendra Khande both farm in the Dindori taluka,in Nashik district,and specialise in asparagus and broccoli. The region supplies around 80kg of asparagus out of the approximate 300kg supplied to Mumbai daily. “Asparagus doesn’t grow well during winter and peak season is in the summer months,” says Deshmukh,pointing out the irony that demand peaks in December. Ratnani talks with them about planting an expensive variety of asparagus that yields much thicker stems which he could use for dishes currently not possible,such as an asparagus carpaccio. The duo agrees to plant it as an experiment just for him.

Khande tells us that asparagus stays fresh for about 24 hours. They harvest asparagus around 4 pm and it reaches Mumbai at 6 am. Nature Fresh,Aurus’ vendor,in turn,supplies the stock to Ratnani by 12 pm the next day after which it is refrigerated until dinner. Even with a daily supply,it takes more than 24 hours from farm to table. Imagine how inferior ingredients end up being when stored for days,weeks or even months.