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This is an archive article published on February 19, 2012

Let’s Eat

Jumjoji,Mumbai’s newest diner,offers Parsi favourites in an upmarket and contemporary setting.

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Cravings for Parsi food have often led fans on expeditions to old,rundown buildings in Colaba or to heritage structures in Ballard Estate. These cafes have remained popular over several decades and are reminiscent of another time. That the paint on their walls has peeled off and their tablecloths are faded,is an added attraction to patrons who wax lyrical about them. In that respect,Jumjoji,with its freshly painted pearl white walls,dark wooden furniture and low,ambient lighting,is a bit of an upgrade.

Located in the ONGC building at Bandra Reclamation,Jumjoji is an upmarket restaurant that serves raspberry soda in a glass instead of sticking a straw in the bottle. The service also mandates that plates be changed from the flat to deep plates between starters and mains. Moreover,the restaurant has photos of gatherings pulled together in a sepia-tinted collage,a stand with coffee table books about Parsis,and a poster with a quiz to determine “How Parsi Are You?” (50 points if “You enter every room nose first”). Jumjoji can thus be classified as a contemporary celebration of the Parsi community.

The menu,designed to look like an old parchment,concentrates on favourites such as Dhansakh,Sali Murgh and Patra Ni Machi,with Kheema,Tava Gosht and Chicken Curry Rice thrown in. But what’s endearing is that many of the dishes are named after women whose recipes have been used. Among the starters,Zenobia Satarawala’s Chicken Cheese and Onion Sausages are coated with a fine layer of egg that balances the moist and juicy bite with dry texture on the outside. Zarine Dastoori’s Veg Corn Tikki has potential,but an extra minute in the deep-fry pan could leave it with a bitter after-taste.

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The most popular item on the menu is Dhansakh. While most would opt for Feni Aunty’s recipe with mutton or Gazder’s version with chicken,vegetarians too have an option with Farida’s vegetarian Dhansakh. The Patra,whose recipe hasn’t been lent by a Parsi lady,can wait for another time in favour of the Akuri. Made with eggs that are beaten with onions,chillies and tomatoes,it may be reminiscent of bhurji,right down to the pav that comes with it. The difference lies in the creaminess of the egg enhanced by a nice crunch of the onions.

The competition between the Lagan Nu Custard and the Chocolate Crunch Puddin — the only two desserts currently on offer — isn’t stiff. But raisins on the moist,dark brown custard are misleading as it lacks flavour and sweetness.

But if Jumjoji is to please fans of the cuisine for the next 50 years,they will have to add more dishes to the menu.

Jumjoji was reviewed anonymously. Meal for two costs approx Rs 1,200

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