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This is an archive article published on March 26, 2013

Evening Wakes Up

Designer Naeem Khan’s first show in his home country was low on drama but high on glamour

MINUTES before Naeem Khan’s Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) show was scheduled to begin on Saturday evening,there was a sudden frenzy among media persons. The hullabaloo was caused by actor Freida Pinto — touted as India’s biggest export to Hollywood — had just walked in. Pinto,who has turned to Naeem Khan for red carpet dressing on more than one occasion,didn’t walk the ramp though. Word has it that her contract with a rival brand prevented her from doing so. However,the actor did make heads turn with her black one-shoulder dress by Khan.

For a couturier who is much loved and celebrated in America’s fashion circles (US First Lady Michelle Obama and several Hollywood celebs swear their allegiance to his 10-year-old label),his first-ever show in India was devoid of the trappings of a commercially-driven spectacle (read: Bollywood actors as showstoppers). That,however,hardly affected the audience response. Khan — who showed at LFW after being pursued by its organisers for several years — was overwhelmed by the adulation that poured in.

The collection told a glamorous story through the medium of intricate embroidery done in Mumbai,one of Khan’s many strengths. The detailing was elaborate with stones,sequins,pearls and studs embellishing floor-length dresses with slits,frock dresses,long jackets,blouses,boleros,skirts and skinny pants. The designer also ensured that this collection was wearable. Dark hues formed his canvas — particularly black,grey,midnight blue and red. Most of his creations had been culled liberally from his previous two shows — including the New York Fashion Week collection shown this February. The show started with a segment that played out classic combinations of black-and-white. Also eye-catching were the full encrusted gown and the knotted lungi creation with a beaded bodice.

The highlight of the line was indisputably the “ball gown sari” that he had created especially for the Indian audience. A multi-striped draped gown with generous folds,it was a fitting end to his clean cut and sharply structured narrative. “It is essentially a one-piece fabric that doesn’t have any stitches and just needs to be draped,” said Khan,after the show. He is looking forward to a stronger presence in India in the coming years.

If his first show in his home country was anything to go by,evening wear in India is all set to get a new,sophisticated look.

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