Almost Indian

Serving Indian cuisine,Jantar Mantar offers kebabs,curries,dals,biryanis and other elements of the main course. The standard fare aside,one can spot ingredients such as basil,cous cous and broccoli — otherwise associated with international cuisines — integrated into Indian cuisine.

One finds listed alongside kalimiri,reshmi and nawabi kebabs,varieties made using wasabi,English cheddar and bell peppers. One thing should be said about the kebabs at Jantar Mantar — prepared over a coal sigdi,the chefs know just when to pull them out of the heat. Quality meat prepared right,unfortunately,isn’t as commonly available at take-away and delivery places in the city where kebabs are often charred on the edges or undercooked. Also,they stock apart from mint sauce,plum and orange chutneys and the variety served alongside your choice of kebab is one that complements its flavour.

The Wasabi Chicken Tikka,therefore,arrives with orange chutney and is spicy but not too pungent. The Rampuri Mutton Sheekh,which promises a fiery alternative to the otherwise-tame variety,however,is a cop out. The Chicken Karachi with pomegranate and beetroot marinade instead turns out to be spicier with only a subtle flavour of the fruits. It’s also a relief they don’t add artificial colours to the food,so the wasabi tikka isn’t green and the Chicken Karachi isn’t red although the kebabs are.

From their main course,we decided to try the Kashmiri Mutton Gustaba and it arrived in a spill-proof container. Perhaps not as spongy as the authentic variety,it was flavourful and tender as it melted in the mouth. The garlic-cheese naan,which can turn chewy if eaten a while after it is prepared,was soft and filling although it arrived 30 minutes after the order was placed.

Co-owned by Dharmesh Karmokar,a partner in

Nom Nom,Jantar Mantar attempts to cater to young professionals from Andheri-Juhu neighbourhood who can’t cook everyday and is open from 3pm to 3am.

They have priced the food accordingly,with

kebabs between Rs 170-Rs 450 and the mains at Rs 180 and above.

The restaurant has Cruise Bowl meals — Cous Cous Tikka Salad,Sabudana with Spicy Salsa,Paneer Bhurji with Toasted Buttered Croutons and so on — packaged so as to make it easy to eat in a car or train.

With over 150 dishes on the menu,made using a large variety of ingredients from across cuisines,one wonders if they will be able to maintain the quality. Because it is one thing to experiment but another to maintain a pantry with fresh ingredients — after all,they may not get an order for Tandoori Water Chestnuts or Achari Broccoli every day.

One will find few reasons to criticise Jantar Mantar for both the quality and taste of the food they serve. That could be because they source the masalas from Lucknow and don’t shy from lavishly using spices,oil or dry fruits in their preparations. While that works for some,it may

be a concern for a diet-conscious client.

Meal for two: Rs 500