Royal Revival

The menu is presented in a somewhat unusual format. Divided according to meats rather than courses,it makes for a pleasant read. We start off with a kebab platter,which has a fair selection of starters. Poultry is represented by a chicken seekh kebab,of which we must admit we were not the biggest fans. But that was till we tried the Kasturi version. Here,it has an unusual flavour and is studded with tiny pearls of caramelised onion,adding greatly to the texture. The mutton galouti kebab is fine,a serviceable rendition of the classic. The star performer of the platter though is the achari fish tikka. It’s a great snack for the summer — the fish is swimmingly fresh,with a marination so light that it’s ephemeral. The achar’s tanginess just tugs at the edges of the palate.

For the main course,we have what our server assures us is the house specialty,Bhuna Murg ,accompanied by Nalli ki Naheri and assorted breads. The lamb shank stew again defies the norm. While most places serve their naheri either thin and cloudy or slick with fat and oil,the chefs here get it just right. The gravy is thick without being overly rich,the shanks well-stewed and fragrant. Flouting the summer rule against red meat never felt this good. This time,the poultry walks away with the honours.

Subtlety seems to be the chefs’ forte here and the taste of the bhuna murg is an aromatic medley of the chicken itself and various spices with a pleasing after-taste of the poppy seeds. The gravies of both the dishes beg to be mopped up with the soft and pliant breads,and we are more than happy to oblige.

We round off the meal with some phirni. Sweet,mellow and chilled,the dessert girds us to face the sweltering heat outside. Regardless of the weather,Kasturi promises to become a favourite in Delhi’s dining diary.

Meal for Two: Rs. 1,800 (including taxes,excluding alcohol)

Address: SCO 5,6,7,Huda Market,Sector 15-II,Gurgaon Contact: 9953763508,0124-4214026

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