Fully Faarsi?

An Iranian restaurant extends the olive branch with its succulent kebabs

Who says nothing good comes out of wars? proclaims the tagline of Faarsi,the new Persian eatery in hipster central. While we can only think of the movie Lord of War and all the perils and pleasures of war profiteering,the restaurant is actually referring to its kebabs. Something which is probably not the best dining option in this weather,when the sun is sticky and the air slightly heavier than the average African bush elephant.

In any case,the restaurant tries to stick hard to its Middle-Eastern roots and gives off the effect of having tried too hard. A tiled,blue-hued hole-in-the-wall,Faarsi comprises a take-away counter catering to the street in Hauz Khas Village while a miniscule restaurant lies at its back,with an open kitchen. The music is a medley of Turkish and Arab pop (there was Hisham Abbass evergreen Nari narien. No doubt,Tarkans Simarik was also lurking somewhere in the playlist),with some Iranian tunes,that the Ayatollah is unaware of,thrown in. There is a large display case crammed with indigo nazars,perhaps to ward of the dampening (hardly existing) success rate of restaurants in the Village.

Apart from these trite details,the menu makes for a pleasant read,populated by various Iranian dishes as well as a few Middle-Eastern staples such as shawarmas and Chermoula basted whatnots. After some consideration,we decide to order the Spicy Lamb Koobideh Wrap,Chicken Sidaya (skewered chicken,marinated with creamy feta cheese),Chermoula Basted Fish and finally Irans national dish,the Chelo Kabab.

Dispensing with Eastwoods formulaic the good,the bad,and the ugly,we will describe the food in an ascending order of flavour (where better to revolt than in an Iranian restaurant). The fish is at the bottom of the barrel,its breadcrumb coating obliterating all traces of the chermoula with its robust trappings of pickled lemons,garlic,cumin and herbs. The chicken is slightly better (probably because its not breader) though again the promised feta is barely discernible. The Chelo does much to restore ones faith and tissues,comprising a couple of large delicately spiced,soft kebabs languorously spread across a bed of yellow rice with a roasted tomato and a musky dip for company. However,it is the wrap which is really a harem of flavour with pickled salad leaves sinuously weaving with minced lamb koobideh kebabs in the privacy of pita bread as soft as a cloud. We ignore the accompanying dips,though we do dally with the pickled veggies,and dig in our trenches. The spoils of war,indeed.

Meal for Two: Rs 1,500 (with taxes,without alcohol)

Address: 26,Ground floor,Hauz Khas Village

Contact: 30146033 ext:111

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