Clutch me Knot

When the genius that is Tomas Maier took over the creative reins of the fading Italian leather-maker,quality workmanship was not the only promise he made. Bottega was positioned as the label that was beyond fashion,a signature that only a few discerning ladies (and men,mais oui) would recognise. It proposed logo-less luxury — an idea that cocked a mean snook at the labels that made advertising billboards of women— with the tagline ‘The only initials that matter are your own.’ Bottega also priced their items slightly higher than most handbag labels,making it even more snobbish to own one.

With that brilliant idea,Bottega introduced an Italian basket-weave called the intrecciato. Most of their handbags,in everyday grocery-bag shapes,began to be woven the intrecciato way. It took a season or two to take off,but is now as instantly recognizable as golden LVs on brown leather. (Of course,the knock-offs followed,Bottega’s basket-weave is the most copied handbag in India ever,poorly made imitations sell at local train stations for as little as Rs 200.)

The success of the intrecciato weave spun a new shape in an evening bag that became Bottega’s blockbuster: the Knot clutch. A tiny little minaudiere that fits a cell-phone,a key,a lipstick and a credit card — all that you need on an evening out — is now the label’s fastest churner,they have a new variety of Knots with every collection. Even though the Knot comes in just two sizes,the varied textures make it a collectible.

The Knot’s popularity in India made Maier introduce 25 editions of the Knot India clutch,a box that blended conventional embroidery with modern laser-cutting and ‘India’ embossed on a sterling plate inside it for a flash of limited-edition glamour.

But the irony of it all is palpable. Bottega Veneta did want to play fashion. It did not want to promote popular and populist styles. It promised a quiet feel-good and delicious discretion. But its mega success and ubiquity have contradicted its image. Bottega Veneta has become too popular for its own good.

Last year,teen pop star Miley Cyrus was papped carrying a purple Bottega with her biker look. It reminded me of when Victoria Beckham,a wannabe fashionista then,wore a Tom Ford outfit to an opening. Ford was aghast and is reported to have said: “Someone stop her from wearing my clothes”.

Although fashion is and must be for everyone and every company’s raison d’etre is to sell,it’s the label’s image that ensures its longevity. And Bottega Veneta needs another trick to come out of its basket-weaves.

(namratanow@gmail.com)