A Walk to Remember

On the 157th anniversary of the Revolt of 1857, a heritage walk revisited its memories, memorials and monuments.

Participants at the Gateway of the British Magazine. The ammunition stock was blown up by the British on May 11, 1857 to prevent it from falling into the hands of the mutineers.

May 11, 1857, was a Monday. Bhistis (water carriers) walked around the streets, sprinkling water to settle the dust. In the telegraph office, a skeletal staff monitored incoming messages. Near the Jama Masjid, paya nahari sellers catered to the faithful. Life was stirring in the Red Fort after a late-night revelry. The banks of the Yamuna, however, were bristling with a battle-cry, “Dilli chalo”.

On Sunday, exactly 157 years after sepoys arrived from Meerut, a heritage walk titled Jung-e-Azadi revisited the events surrounding 1857.

Conducted by DelhiByFoot, it attracted students, tourists, Delhi buffs and heritage walkers. Walk leader Ramit Mitra stood under a McDonalds sign at the Kashmere Gate Metro Station, pointed around to the concrete jungle, and said, “Near here, a tributary of the Yamuna flowed and the sepoys crossed over by boat.”

Kashmere Gate of the time was a little easier to imagine. Its restored facade bears cannon ball scars — mementos of the pounding by British troops. When Mitra didn’t speak, he showed. Two

DelhiByFoot members dressed in uniforms (presumably of the Raj) enacted an argument between an Indian sepoy and a British officer of the British East Indian

Company. As they fought over greased cartridges, “the way our kings are being deposed”, taxes and general treatment, the gulf between the Indians and the British became evident.

The walk route from Kashmere Gate led to St James Church where Sunday mass was on. On the grounds is a memorial to “all Christians who were murdered by the Enemy from May till September 1857”. “We are the enemy,” said Mitra and let the irony sink in.

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Past houses with British grills and glass windows — as opposed to Islamic architecture of the era — the walk wound towards a traffic island littered with plastic and dry leaves, where stands the Telegraph Memorial. It was here that three British men had sounded an alarm on May 11 to the cantonment town of Ambala. As the bloodshed outside escalated, their last message was “We are off”.

Against a backdrop of cinemas showing Mastram, red, green and orange buses, and dirty pavements, walkers imagined a Delhi that was “wide open and empty, with few houses and traffic”.

The weather too was different — Sunday was cool, breezy and cloudy — but easier to imagine. “It would have been very hot that day, more than 40 degrees because there was little to shield Delhi from the desert winds of Rajasthan,” said Mitra.

His talk of attacks and counter-attacks included facts and folklore of the people and places. The British hero Brig Gen John Nicholson, he said, was a ruthless 34-year-old, who had once kept the severed head of a criminal on his desk as a deterrent to others. Tales of boozy officers and dithering British superiors, of a poet king and fierce mutineers made up the four-hour-long walk into the past.

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After a quick visit to the Mutiny Memorial at the Northern Ridge “built to commemorate English officers and native soldiers who fought for the English East India Company”, the morning ended at the unadorned grave of Nicholson, “who led the assault of Delhi but fell in the hour of victory”.

Dipanita Nath

Dipanita Nath is a Senior Assistant Editor at The Indian Express, based in Pune. She is a versatile journalist with a deep interest in the intersection of culture, sustainability, and urban life. Professional Background Experience: Before joining The Indian Express, she worked with other major news organizations including Hindustan Times, The Times of India, and Mint. Core Specializations: She is widely recognized for her coverage of the climate crisis, theatre and performing arts, heritage conservation, and the startup ecosystem (often through her "Pune Inc" series). Storytelling Focus: Her work often unearths "hidden stories" of Pune—focusing on historical institutes, local traditions, and the personal journeys of social innovators. Recent Notable Articles (December 2025) Her recent reporting highlights Pune’s cultural pulse and the environmental challenges facing the city during the winter season: 1. Climate & Environment "Pune shivers on coldest morning of the season; minimum temperature plunges to 6.9°C" (Dec 20, 2025): Reporting on the record-breaking cold wave in Pune and the IMD's forecast for the week. "How a heritage tree-mapping event at Ganeshkhind Garden highlights rising interest in Pune’s green legacy" (Dec 20, 2025): Covering a citizen-led initiative where Gen Z and millennials gathered to document and protect ancient trees at a Biodiversity Heritage Site. "Right to breathe: Landmark NGT order directs PMC to frame norms for pollution from construction sites" (Dec 8, 2025): Reporting on a significant legal victory for residents fighting dust and air pollution in urban neighborhoods like Baner. 2. "Hidden Stories" & Heritage "Inside Pune library that’s nourished minds of entrepreneurs for 17 years" (Dec 21, 2025): A feature on the Venture Center Library, detailing how a collection of 3,500 specialized books helps tech startups navigate the product life cycle. "Before he died, Ram Sutar gave Pune a lasting gift" (Dec 18, 2025): A tribute to the legendary sculptor Ram Sutar (creator of the Statue of Unity), focusing on his local works like the Chhatrapati Shivaji statue at Pune airport. "The Pune institute where MA Jinnah was once chief guest" (Dec 6, 2025): An archival exploration of the College of Agriculture, established in 1907, and its historical role in India's freedom struggle. 3. Arts, Theatre & "Pune Inc" "Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak were not rivals but close friends, says veteran filmmaker" (Dec 17, 2025): A deep-dive interview ahead of the Pune International Film Festival (PIFF) exploring the camaraderie between legends of Indian cinema. "Meet the Pune entrepreneur helping women build and scale businesses" (Dec 16, 2025): Part of her "Pune Inc" series, profiling Nikita Vora’s efforts to empower female-led startups. "How women drone pilots in rural Maharashtra are cultivating a green habit" (Dec 12, 2025): Exploring how technology is being used by women in agriculture to reduce chemical use and labor. Signature Style Dipanita Nath is known for intellectual curiosity and a narrative-driven approach. Whether she is writing about a 110-year-old eatery or the intricacies of the climate crisis, she focuses on the human element and the historical context. Her columns are often a blend of reportage and cultural commentary, making them a staple for readers interested in the "soul" of Pune. X (Twitter): @dipanitanath ... Read More

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