Drama Without Character

Anupamaa Dayal’s latest Autumn-Winter collection called “Surat n Spice” could even be renamed mirchi. There was enough drama to make it an exciting watch — a live musician playing a folk instrument,models play-acting and blazing bright hues. The theme revolved around Surat,the textile hub of India in the 16th-18th century. Tunics,cholis,ankle-length pleated and gathered lehangas,saris,skirts,shararas,long dresses,kaftans and bikinis,too,walked the ramp. We love the colours — fuschia pink,parrot green,haldi yellow and oranges. Dayal is dexterous at colour combinations and that’s her signature. She used chanderi,pashmina,silk and chiffon and added jhallar neckpieces to finish the look. If she had left it to all this,it would have been a good collection but she went on to add more and more elements. Track pants came in,as did block-printed biker shorts. Sneakers too. It looked as if a sari tied on shorts was out for a jog. Dayal had a story,but unfortunately it had no beginning,middle or end,and needed an editor. While the colour palette was signature Anupamaa,hers was not an Autumn-Winter collection by any definition.

A wood & a forest

Influenced by Misogiharai,the Shinto act of purifying,Anand Kabra’s collection titled “Becoming Kami” had a sense of spiritual calmness. Set to the sound of trickling water,models walked down the ramp in deep blue,moss,mint green,blazing orange and white creations. Layering played an important role in Kabra’s collection — long skirts with full-sleeves shirts,and some even with a mega-sleeves jacket. Long dresses,lehengas,saris and jackets were part of the collection. The models sported a soaked-hair look,supported by a stack of auntyji bob pins that worked as hair accessories. We loved it. More or less,the collection kept the theme intact but the last few garments were disappointing. The dark green lehengas with zardozi work didn’t really hold up the concept. A heavily sequined brown long dress had sequins falling off it all over the ramp,suggesting mediocre finishing. The shoes could have certainly been better constructed.