Yes, Skirt the Issue

It8217;s about being elegant and chic this fall-winter. The fitted look is on its way out. So what8217;s in? Skirts, lace trimmings, even androgyny...

A SKIRT BARELY REACHING YOUR KNEES, that cute little knitted dress with lace trim-mings and those high-waisted pants with just the hint of a flair at the ankles8212;when you go shop-ping for your wardrobe this season, ensure that these find space in your shopping cart. For, fall-winter 2006-07 is about the re-emergence of all that is chic and feminine.

8220;It8217;s a return to the elegance and sophistication of the 1950s. The look is understated, but not austere. There8217;s a hint of romance as you liven things up with a touch of ruffles at the sleeve, or pom-poms at the hems. The effect has to be subtly classy,8221; says designer Nikhil Mehra. His pick includes knitted jerseys and tees with ethnic prints and full-bodied skirts. 8220;The square neckline is very appealing. In pants, ankle stitches lend a casual elegance to the outfit,8221; he says.

Mehra8217;s choice of colours, though, is very lim-ited8212; he suggests sticking to the basic white and black. Skirts top the list of must-haves this season, fol-lowed closely by high-waisted pants. However, it8217;s no longer the ankle-length voluminous ones that are making waves. The craze is for a shorter, knee-length variety that is gathered at the waist and is more gener-ous with the volume. 8220;Internationally too, the fitted, slimmer look is on its way out. It8217;s slowly marking an emphasis on volume. Empire-line waists are becom-ing trendy,8221; explains designer David Abraham. Abra- ham and Thakore8217;s fall-winter collection cap-tures this look in a melange of colours that in-clude black, grey, mahogany, pomegranate, charcoal and ivory.

The other item that should find pride of place in every fashionista8217;s wardrobe is the dress. 8220;Dresses, be it the tunic with appliqueacute; or the more fitted-knitted variety, are on their way up. Since the colours for fall-winter are stark, the silhouettes have to complement the mood in such a way that the effect is not too sombre,8221; says Ashish Soni. His collection showcased at the New York Fashion Week had a range of knits8212;fine sweaters in cashmere, high-waisted pants, and white shirts with bright jerseys teamed with them for a colourful look.

8220;That apart, the colour palette is quite basic, mostly charcoals, black and white. Chocolate is becoming as popular as black,8221; adds Soni. Kolkata-based designer Kiran Uttam Ghosh too has worked with what she terms 8220;masculine colours and prints8221;. Says Ghosh: 8220;You wouldn8217;t really asso-ciate pinstripes and greys with a woman. But this season, the stress is on androgy-nous fashion. What works for men works for women too.8221; Ghosh is just back from a show at the Alta Moda Roma Fashion Week in Italy. Her repertoire included colours like grey and burgundy while she played around with silhouettes.

8220;The slim, cigarette fit is outdated. The silhouettes have to be fluid, so that it is at once feminine and sleek,8221; she says.

And while you are at it, look out for tonal embroideries and embellishments like appliqueacute; and lace. 8220;In keeping with the entire mood, the embroidery too has to be subtle. It could be woven into the fabric or sim-ply be tonal embroidery. So, combinations like pale grey and ivory pink, and black on grey would stand out this season,8221; says Abraham, while Soni casts his vote in favour of lace trimmings.

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Ghosh suggests pairing up the ensembles with add-ons like kolhapuris or colourful brooches. 8220;It lends a feminine charm to the outfit,8221; she says. So, get going and overhaul that wardrobe of yours. The season8217;s about to begin.