Syrian secrets

Nor does Syria fit the stereotype of an Arab nation drifting towards Islamic fundamentalism. As I travelled around the country,I found a multicultural society,proud of its ancient civilisation which goes back beyond 7,000 BC. Syria has been ruled by Assyrians,Babylonians,Acaemid Persians,Greeks,Romans,Byzantines,Muslim armies,Ottoman Turks and the French. It is a melting pot of many genetic strains. Far from being an insular and closed society,it is,by Middle Eastern standards,remarkably liberal and open-minded. Everywhere we went,people expressed their unhappiness at Syrias vilification. We are paying the price for sticking our necks out for the Arab cause,while our neighbours are happy to make their own deals with the US, says Bassil Zeno,an archeology student.

The stunning looks of the women of Damascus,with wasp waists,flawless complexions,stylishly cut clothes and pencil-thin heels is epitomised in Syrias first lady,Asma Assad. A former financial analyst from London,she is responsible for introducing many innovative reforms from micro-credit banking to schools for the autistic. Syria is certainly ahead of its neighbours when it comes to womens empowerment. There is even a woman vice-president,a first for the Middle East. The female illiteracy rate is down to 14 per cent. Outside Damascus,most women wear hijabs,but what is remarkable is that in government schools,girls with head covers and those without interact unself-consciously.

Syrias secular traditions,nurtured under the relatively progressive dictatorship of the Assad family,make it stand out in this part of the world. Unlike many Muslim countries,as for example,Pakistan,which likes to disassociate itself from its non-Islamic past to the extent of practically ignoring the existence of Mohenjodaro,Syria takes pride in its pre-Muslim history. Ten per cent of the population is Christian. The Christian quarter of Damascus is dotted with old churches of many denominations,including Greek Orthodox,Syrian Orthodox,Roman Catholic,Maronite and Armenian. Jesus Christ spent part of his life in Syria and in Maalula village residents still speak Aramaic,the language spoken during Christs lifetime.

Exemplifying Syrias tolerant spirit is the Umayyad mosque in Damascus,one of the oldest and grandest mosques in the world,built on a location first used as a temple dedicated to the worship of Hadad,an Aramean deity. The magnificent courtyard is decorated by mosaics and the dome and minarets perfectly proportioned. Buried under a shrine in the mosque lies the head of John the Baptist Yahya. Another holy spot within the mosque is where the head of Husain,grandson of Prophet Mohammed,was cut off. The downside of Syrias secularism is that while Christians are free to practice their religion and are not governed by Shariah law,it is forbidden for Muslims to convert to Christianity.

Which part of Syria did we enjoy the most,asked Asma Assad? It was a tough one. Syrias main towns,Damascus and Aleppo,are steeped in history. Aleppo,which was on the Silk Route and once had links with Chennai,can trace its history back to the third millennium BC. We wandered through long-winding bazaars,called souks,in both cities,like kids at a candy store. A few centuries old,the souks offer a spectacular variety of goods,from perfumes,damask tablecloths,carpets and ceramics to jewellery,soaps and glass. The sweet shops are filled with a variety of marzipan,guz nougat,nuts and candied fruit,enough to leave you spellbound. But not all the oriental goods on display are made in Syria,many are imported from Iran,Turkey and some ornaments look suspiciously Indian.

Our next stop is Palmyra. Established in the second century BC,it was once the capital of legendary Arab queen Zenobia. Its situated in the heart of the

Syrian desert and here you can soak in the splendour of the city of a thousand columns,in near isolationcontrast that with Ephesus in neighbouring Turkey,where you are swarmed by tourists clicking the Roman ruins.

Walking down a street in Aleppo,a man came up to our group and handed each of us a loaf of freshly baked bread because he was intrigued by the sight of so many Indians. When a Bedouin shepherd spotted us at the ruins of one of Syrias mysterious dead cities,he promptly invited us to his house for a cup of tea.

The warmth of the Syrians,particularly when compared with the mercenary approach towards tourists next door at Jordan,suggests that much of Syrias charm is intact since it is not on the regular tourist trail. It is indeed a well-kept secret.

FAST FACTS
Fast Facts
Getting there : There is no direct flight ever since Syrian Airlines discontinued its service from India. All Middle East airlines fly to Damascus,with a stopover at their respective headquarters. Turkish Airlines flies via Istanbul.

Best time to visit: Because of the desert climate,the temperatures are extreme in mid winter and summer. March to May and September to November are the best months for a visit.

Accommodation
: The Sheraton is centrally located in modern Damascus. Remember to look out for the beauteous Brazilian belly dancer Fernanda,who performs at one of Sheratons restaurants. The Old

Damascus Hotel in the Bab Touma quarters gives you the feel of Arab hospitality in an old-world setting.
Eating: Syrian and Lebanese cuisine are similar. There is plenty of vegetarian fare among the tempting array of starters. Meals end with strong Arab coffee and puffing the aromatic Hubble Bubble hookah. Bab Alhara,next to the Umayyad mosque,offers both Syrian and French cuisine at very reasonable rates. The Middle East ambiance and hospitality of the waiters makes eating here a very special experience. Nearby is the Al Nasour café where a story-teller comes every evening to recount tales in the tradition of Sherazade.