Water Wonder

GETTING THERE: Many travelers do the Leh-Pangong Tso excursion as a day trip and come back to Leh by nightfall. However, this is not recommended, since the 340 km long round trip leaves little time for Pangong Tso, which is a magnificent lake and doing this excursion in the span of two to three days is highly recommended. Instead, start from Leh 8211; Karu 45 kms. Start off from Leh early in the morning after breakfast and start driving/riding on the Leh-Manali highway till you reach the town of Karu. This will take you less than an hour. Once you are at Karu, head for Chang La 35 kms. From Karu you need to take a left that would take you to the village Shakti, roads are mostly straight till you cross Shakti and a few kilometres thereafter the real ascent for Chang La starts. For most part ascent is steep and initially roads are in good condition. As you approach the final few kms of the ascent to Chang La, road conditions start to deteriorate and steepness increases, making the affair of reaching the summit of Chang La more challenging and memorable. Once you reach the summit, you will be greeted by the Indian Army troops. There is a temple on top of Chang La pass, called Chang La Baba ka Mandir, as well as a cabin built by the army where you can warm up yourself while chatting with the soldiers.

Chang La 8211; Tanksey 58 kms: After a few minutes rest, its time to begin the descent from Chang La, road is in bad condition for few kilometers, beyond which superbly laid tarmac coupled with beautiful scenery awaits you. Your next big break will be at Tangste; a big town with few shops, hotels and an internet cafeacute;. It is a good idea to have your lunch here or in case you have arrived late in the evening, then spend the night here instead of continuing to Lukung or Spangmik where finding accommodation in peak season can be an issue.

Tanksey 8211; Spangmik Pangong Tso 32 kms: Journey beyond Tanksey for most part is through fantastically laid tarmac and views, however don8217;t indulge in over speeding, since there are quite a few water passages built in the middle of the road, which essentially mean 8-10 feet long depression in the middle of the road without any warnings.

As you approach the lake, the sheer size of it starts becoming more apparent as you finally reach its shores. On the banks of the lake is a military camp and also Lukung which is a collection of tents and newly built Eco Huts. From here you can carry on to the road that turns in to sand and rock filled dirt track. The small settlement visible from here is the village of Spangmik, the last village up to which you are allowed to go on normal inner line permits.

Spangmik 8211; Marsimek La 42 kms: 10 kms before Spangmik on the Spangmik -Tanksey road is a diversion that goes towards the village of Phobrang and finally to the highest Motorable pass in the world, Marsimek.

Restricted Area: Pangong Tso, Marsimek La and Chang La are restricted areas and to visit them, you need permits, which are easily obtainable from the DC8217;s office in Leh and can be procured by either submitting the application yourself or through a travel agent. The permits are issued for a maximum period of three weeks. If you want to attempt Marsimek La then you need to specifically mention that while applying for permits. Make at least four photocopies of the permit per region, since you would need to submit them at various check posts.

ACCOMODATIONS: Tanksey: Even though Tanksey is 32 kms before Pangong Tso, it is a good place to spend the night, due to sheer number of accommodation options.

Lukung: Eco Huts at Lukung are just right of the shore of Pangong Tso. Be warned there is no electricity or proper toilet, just camping grade toilet and warm water courtesy solar water heater. Besides, one can also pitch ones own tents here.

Spangmik: The place has one hotel, which offers rooms as well as luxury tents; however get ready to shell out any where between Rs 700 8211; 1200 for these. One can also find accommodation in guest houses that some inhabitants of Spangmik run from their home.

AMENITIES: Petrol pumps: It is essential to fill up your vehicles petrol tank at Leh and carry enough petrol for the return journey, since there are no petrol pumps beyond the outskirts of Leh.

Phone services: Beyond Thiksey there are no phone booths and mobile phone coverage, however there is an internet cafeacute; at Tanksey.

Well, as someone said that more than the destination it is the journey, which is important and Pangong Lake offers not only a marvelous journey but also a treat for senses. I am sure you wouldn8217;t miss out on this one.

Caution: Before you plan your trip to Pangong Tso, make sure about clear weather and road blockage, if any.

The writer is a city based gemmologist and owns an adventure club, clubfootloose.com. Mail him at solisethigmail.com