The truth about magic potions

8220;These creams might make you smell good and temporarily soften your skin but they have absolutely no impact on the health of your skin,8221; says Delhi-based dermatologist Sandeep Kandhari. 8220;For normal skin, glycerine and water work as well as the most expensive moisturiser.8221; Some Indian dermatologists even refute the importance of moisturising daily. 8220;It should be done only if your skin is feeling parched, not as a ritual,8221; adds Dr Kandhari.

As affluent Indians become more brand-conscious, skincare budgets are on the rise. A variety of international brands are cashing in on the growing demand. Now, even the world8217;s most expensive skin products are available in Delhi and Mumbai. A small jar of Cregrave;me de La Mer, which has a devoted following in the West, costs an astounding 450 Rs 18,370. Created by an aerospace physicist to treat his own burn scars, this cream is a concoction of seaweed extracts and mineral oil. A New Delhi shopkeeper who imports it for select clients reveals on condition of anonymity that he sells about four jars a week. Ditto for La Prairie, another fast-selling global brand that has takers here. An ounce can cost 335 Rs 13,600.

But as Indians fall for exotic ingredients, skilful marketing and snazzily packaged creams, dermatologists in New York are now advocating skin care minimalism. The back-to-basics movement in the West has been fuelled by dermatologists who have reached the conclusion that there is no scientific evidence to suggest that expensive cosmetics work. Medicated treatments for acne, pigmentation and sunburn go through rigorous tests to prove their efficacy. Cosmetics don8217;t. Though most cosmetic companies spend on research, they8217;re not required to make their findings public. Moreover, a new product poses the risk of allergic reactions like itching and white spots.

We asked Lakme, a leading cosmetic brand in India to share what research, if any, goes into product development. The spokesperson for the company declined to comment. VLCC, a health care brand and a new entrant in the personal products market launched a range of cleansers, toners and moisturisers four years ago and did a turnover of Rs 40 crore in the last financial year. 8220;We haven8217;t conducted tests nor do we have data to show that our products work,8221; says Shweta Paul, manager, VLCC Personal Products. 8220;The feedback from users is very positive, so they must be benefiting,8221; adds Paul.

US doctors are now urging patients to use soap to keep skin clean and sunscreen to protect against the sun. That8217;s it. However, dermatologists here say that typical Indian skin doesn8217;t even require sunscreen. 8220;Unlike Europeans, our skin has a large quantity of melanin, which is a natural shield against skin cancer,8221; says Dr J.S. Pasricha, who was the head of dermatology at AIIMS and an expert on autoimmune skin diseases. Dr Pasricha cites the example of Indians living in Australia where the rate of skin cancer is the highest in the world, but negligibly low in the Indian community.

8220;Similarly, people living in the hills in India are exposed to the sun a lot, but they don8217;t get sunburn,8221; explains Dr Pasricha. He8217;s also dead against facials, microderm abrasion treatments and chemical peels prescribed at local beauty parlours. 8220;When you peel a layer off artificially, you8217;re tampering with the natural rhythm of your skin,8221; he says, adding that scrubs for exfoliation and home remedies like milk and fruit masks are 8220;completely nonsensical and have no medical benefit whatsoever8221;.

There may be a feel-good factor to having someone massage your face, but is it going to reduce wrinkles? The answer from the medical community is a resounding no. As for brands that position themselves as organic, chemical-free and made of plant extracts, dermatologists denounce them as downright dangerous. 8220;Even tobacco is a plant,8221; says Dr Pasricha, 8220;does that make it safe?8221; he asks.

The bigger question on the efficacy of anti-wrinkle creams is complicated. Consumers should look for the ingredients retinol and alpha hydroxy acids that have been known to stimulate skin cells and reduce dark spots and lines. However, buying any anti-wrinkle cream and randomly applying it isn8217;t going to dramatically reverse the ageing process.

8220;It8217;s not like the same solution will work for all skin types,8221; says Dr Kandhari. 8220;It depends on formulation and the oil and water content of the cream.8221; For those of us really looking for the elixir of youth, maybe we8217;re better off investing in a shot of botox.