Slick Route

There8217;s more of the past visible, of course, when I reach the top of the hill. Azerbaijan is on the western coast of the Caspian Sea, a nation tucked between Iran and Russia, and once a major stopover on the Silk Route. It is also the birthplace of Zoroastrianism. Baku8217;s Ateshgah Fire Temple survives the advance of Islam, though, alas, it is no longer, fed naturally by gas.

From the corner of my eye, I spy the historic city, Ichari Shahar, a well-preserved maze of narrow cobbled-stone streets, old houses with overhanging balconies, and, well, a few curio shops. Built around the 11th century, shades of brown define this delightful area that continues to be habitated, and retains much of its charm.

BUT it is when one looks to the emerald-green expanse of the Caspian Sea, does one see, in the distance, Azerbaijan8217;s vision of an oil-rich future. Reserves of up to 17 billion barrels of oil in these waters are drawing foreign companies in droves. Over the next 20 years, the country could gain a staggering 128 billion, according to one estimate.

Matching the offshore oil rigs on the horizon are countless cranes as this well-appointed city goes through an unprecedented construction boom. Much like a century ago, when Baku8217;s oil barons built their massive houses8212; with a mixture of influences, ranging from Morrosh to Gothic to Islamic, they still form an integral part of the city8212;the city is booming. No wonder they call it the next Kuwait.

Baku8217;s beautiful women8212;surely, the best example of the democratisation of beauty8212;walk around large avenues and shopping malls with the latest designer stores. Under large images of President Ilham Aliyev, designer cars are aplenty in downtown Baku8217;s somewhat chaotic traffic though nothing like Tehran8217;s, possibly the worst in the world.

Though Azeris, who make up 90 per cent of the population, are Muslim, the country is light years away from its counterparts in West Asia. With freedom to women to work and dress as they choose, Azerbaijan appears closer to Europe.

After years of suppression by the Soviet Union, the cosmetics industry is booming, and though no numbers are available, many of the 1,000-odd Indians working in this city have chosen to marry8212;and stay put.

AFTER its economy contracted 60 per cent between 1990 and 1995, Azerbaijan is clearly moving forward. Its importance is derived by the flurry of pipelines that will disgorge Caspian Sea oil to buyers in Europe and the rest of the world. The showpiece8212;the BTC,

or Baku-Tblisi-Ceyhan pipeline8212; will come onstream in a few months, and become the single-point pipeline from the Caspian Sea to the Mediterranean Sea. The uncertainty, however, is driven by an overarching sceptcism that the oil dollars will not trickle down to an economy, racked by high poverty and unemployment levels apart from poor infrastructure. According to the IMF, 46 per cent of the Azeris are below the poverty line. Will they be able to reap the benefits of Azerbaijan8217;s natural resources? The answer to that one is still blowing over Baku Bay.