Quiet a difference

Home to the premier military institute, the Defence Services Staff College, this military cantonment was named after the Iron duke, Wellington, who developed it as a sanatorium. It gradually evolved into a cantonment town when the British discovered the idyllic locale in the 1820s. Today, defence personnel are not its only inhabitants. It8217;s also a golfer8217;s paradise, with the 18-hole golf course at an altitude of 1850 m attached to the Wellington Gymkhana Club.

Life here is laidback all right. Imagine pine branches brushing your window and cones littering the backyard, if you8217;re lucky enough to stay in the cantonment that is. If not, try the Gymkhana Club, which has several cottages which take you back to the days of the Raj with its fireplaces and colonial architecture. The rooms are booked weeks in advance, of course.

Another quirk that sets apart this place is the barter system that is truly alive and kicking: domestic workers are paid in rum bottles, not money. In fact, I was witness to a heated argument between an army wife and a dhobi, who complained of being given one bottle less than the cook!

Initially, you might miss the little bakeries and quaint shops that a Chail or Rishikesh would throw up, but it8217;s more than compensated for by the trekking trails, the Hidden Valley behind the Golf Course being one such. So remember to take along sturdy shoes. Morning walks are a good time to click photos, though it may be hard to capture the magical feeling of the first rays filtering through the tall trees. Also, be prepared for the play of shower and sunshine8212;it may be raining in Wellington but Coonoor, two km away, could be completely dry. An umbrella for the day and a light jacket for the chilly evenings is a must.

Remnants of this town8217;s British heritage are strewn all over8212;St. George8217;s church dating back to 1885, tucked away among the blue gum trees, and the Staff College with its sloping red roof and imposing auditorium are two such edifices. Out of bounds for civilians, the college has defence personnel from the country and abroad attending its courses. Of the several roads that fork out from this roundabout, the Manekshaw Road, named after General Sam Manekshaw, is eye-catching.

Another hotspot is the Madras Regimental Centre, where scenes from Roja were shot. The locals will proudly point out every spot where film shootings have taken place, including the Golf Course, which is quite popular with Bollywood.

A constant reminder of the fact that you8217;re in the Nilgiris are the lush green tea gardens stretching for miles. Hop on a local bus and make your way to Coonoor, a stone8217;s throw from the cantonment and the second largest hill station in the Nilgiris. Sim8217;s park in upper Coonoor is a botanical garden spread over 12 acres with over a hundred species of plants from India and abroad. Another British legacy, it was set up by J.D. Sim, a member of the Governor General8217;s council, in the 1870s. What8217;s most enjoyable here is looking for the Rudraksha beads. What8217;s not is the gardeners trying to sell them.

With little to do in the evenings, most head towards the Gymkhana Club with its well stocked bar and bridge tables. Eating out is generally at the Club or the Taj Garden Retreat in upper Coonoor. If you8217;ve had your fill of Wellington, head for the more popular spots close to Coonoor8212;Dolphin8217;s Nose and Lamb8217;s Rock8212;for spectacular views of the valley. As for me, I was happy to be away from the crowds. Wellington, with its old-world charm, quaint cottages and pine trees is an ideal getaway. There8217;s much to be thankful for in its seclusion after all.