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This is an archive article published on May 11, 1999

Preserving a mystery

There is something distinctly heroic about a 15-year-old Nepali boy's decision last week to abandon his final bid to become the youngest ...

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There is something distinctly heroic about a 15-year-old Nepali boy’s decision last week to abandon his final bid to become the youngest person to scale Mount Everest just 100 metres short of the summit. To quietly turn one’s back on 15 minutes of certified fame — to make a brutal assessment of the limits of one’s physical endurance at an altitude where mental processes come to a virtual halt — speaks of a maturity as rare in today’s Everest circus as the oxygen at 8,848 metres.

But heroism comes in many hues on the treacherous ledges leading to the peak, none perhaps more romantic than George Leigh Mallory’s tragic 1924 expedition. At a time when pedestrians willing to fork out $75,000 can hope to be guided all the way to the clouds, with a cup of Starbucks coffee and the odd satellite phone call thrown in, the mystery whether this 38-year-old English schoolteacher, clad in tweeds and equipped with outdated 30-pound oxygen canisters, actually scaled the mountain before dying a premature death on the slopes has become more and more compelling. The holy grail for Everest enthusiasts, Mallory’s body has finally been found, but, alas, his final hours are still shrouded in a fog of ifs and another swirling controversy.

What is it about this highest of all peaks? Why does it exercise such a magnetic hold on mountaineers and armchair climbers alike? How is it that distant happenings in the upper reaches of a distant mountain find resonance in millions of conversations around the world?

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“Because it is there,” Mallory said famously when asked about his obsession with Everest. Ever the intrepid traveller, a man whose decades-old corpse revealed a letter from his wife next to his chest, Mallory occupies a special slot in the human imagination in a world where no spot on earth is now pristinely remote and the new, unexplored frontiers are in the realm of cyberspace.

Maybe that is why we so want him to be declared the first conqueror of Chomolungma, why we so want the sunglasses in his pocket to be taken as definitive proof of ascent. Maybe that is why we are indulging in a mass orgy of indignation at a valid point raised by Edmund Hillary that getting back alive is part of the deed, a sentiment the 15-year-old no doubt shares.

Most importantly, maybe we need the Mallory myth to restore the enigma to Everest after a spate of bestsellers that have made South Col and the Khumbu Icefall part of popular conversation, after websites instantly post despatches from climbers at every step of their assault. In fact, Dave Hahn, in his initial report after unexpectedly finding Mallory’s body on the northern ridge — for some strange reason, which has yet to be stated, Hahn and his team thought they were hot on Irvine’s trail — thrilled over this brush with history, acknowledged the consequent edge to what would simply have been the two-minute stardom a successful ascent accords.

And yet, amidst this resuscitated romance, there is something oddly disturbing about the vicarious thrills delivered at mountainzone.com, an online magazine that has sponsored the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, of which Hahn is a member. A single click of the mouse brings alive the howling winds, another brings us up-to-date with the everyday, pedestrian thoughts of climbers. A few more clicks and the magic starts wearing off.

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So, wide-eyed, we may reconstruct Mallory’s final footsteps and speculate on the secrets trapped in his elusive Kodak camera, but deep within we hope the mystery will endure, that his legend will not be reduced to poorly worded certainties on the Net. Just as we render quiet thanks that Everest House in Mussoorie survives in dilapidated solitude, unencroached by the tourist industry.

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