Men146;s ware

The moment of the metrosexual is finally over. With the global meltdown and the pall of gloom in a recession-prone, terror-ridden world, this is just not the time to dress dandy or indulge in some overtly sartorial elegance.

Dress sober and think comfort rather than turn dandy, and go for overtly sartorial elegance. That8217;s menswear designers8217; advice for the season

The moment of the metrosexual is finally over. With the global meltdown and the pall of gloom in a recession-prone, terror-ridden world, this is just not the time to dress dandy or indulge in some overtly sartorial elegance. Designs on the runway have always been an indication of the changing times, and if the collections of Dolce and Gabbana or Louis Vuitton, or even iconic designers like Alexander McQueen are anything to go by, now is not the time to sport the suave pink shirt or the almost pretty cashmere sweater that is a gross misfit with the credit crunch at hand. What designers are hinting at, though, is a return to the look of the Seventies8212;comfortable, solid and quite like homespun.

It8217;s a time when trench coats and bomber jackets are back in fashion, particularly because they are so handy and utilitarian, says designer Siddharth Tytler. 8220;Conservative colours are in8212;like greys and blacks, browns and moss green, which can be teamed with contrasting bottoms for a coordinated but toned-down look,8221; he says.

Knits are coming back in a big way, with cable stitches and patchworks making regular appearances, and cardigans that can be worn as jackets. While Burberry and Fendi made use of feathers and fur lining, Indian designers like Hemant Sagar at Ensemble have gone in for tweeds, corduroy and leather. 8220;We have extensively used the Scottish checks8212;both in blue and red, and black and white8212;and teamed it with short leather jackets without collars, low-waist pants with drainpipe fit. Everything is made to contour-fit,8221; says Sagar.

The emphasis is obviously on a leaner, tougher and, by extension, a more 8216;masculine8217; look. The designs are mostly geometric patterns8212;at the most, there will be tonal embroidery or interplay of blocks of colours. Designer Varun Bahl at Ensemble and Aza, for instance, has gone in for contour detail on his menswear, playing up the silhouettes with pleats and pin-tucks and incorporating hints of tonal embroidery on some. 8220;Of course, the mood is all about a solid, well-defined look, but I8217;d advise against complete slim-fits. Make sure the clothes fit your shoulders and your back and then drape well. It should fall easy across the chest,8221; says Delhi-based menswear designer Rajvi Mohan, who advises a more layered look with lightweight sweaters in shades of burgundy or brown, teamed with suitably accented denims or trousers.

8220;The length of the jacket,8221; says Mumbai designer Troy Costa, a new name among Bollywood stars, 8220;is important in that it should not be too long. The shorter, the better,8221; he says. Costa also advises neck drapes that can provide a contrast to the rather bleak palette that is the highlight of this autumn.

Another big trend is the return of the stripes, mostly subtle, to offset the severity of the look. Go for blends of cotton, viscose, poplin and you should be ready to take on the Indian winter. And to fortify yourself against the mood of the times.

Paromita Chakrabarti

Paromita Chakrabarti is Senior Associate Editor at the The Indian Express. She is a key member of the National Editorial and Opinion desk and writes on books and literature, gender discourse, workplace policies and contemporary socio-cultural trends. Professional Profile With a career spanning over 20 years, her work is characterized by a "deep culture" approach—examining how literature, gender, and social policy intersect with contemporary life. Specialization: Books and publishing, gender discourse (specifically workplace dynamics), and modern socio-cultural trends. Editorial Role: She curates the literary coverage for the paper, overseeing reviews, author profiles, and long-form features on global literary awards. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent writing highlights a blend of literary expertise and sharp social commentary: 1. Literary Coverage & Nobel/Booker Awards "2025 Nobel Prize in Literature | Hungarian master of apocalypse" (Oct 10, 2025): An in-depth analysis of László Krasznahorkai’s win, exploring his themes of despair and grace. "Everything you need to know about the Booker Prize 2025" (Nov 10, 2025): A comprehensive guide to the history and top contenders of the year. "Katie Kitamura's Audition turns life into a stage" (Nov 8, 2025): A review of the novel’s exploration of self-recognition and performance. 2. Gender & Workplace Policy "Karnataka’s menstrual leave policy: The problem isn’t periods. It’s that workplaces are built for men" (Oct 13, 2025): A viral opinion piece arguing that modern workplace patterns are calibrated to male biology, making women's rights feel like "concessions." "Best of Both Sides: For women’s cricket, it’s 1978, not 1983" (Nov 7, 2025): A piece on how the yardstick of men's cricket cannot accurately measure the revolution in the women's game. 3. Social Trends & Childhood Crisis "The kids are not alright: An unprecedented crisis is brewing in schools and homes" (Nov 23, 2025): Writing as the Opinions Editor, she analyzed how rising competition and digital overload are overwhelming children. 4. Author Interviews & Profiles "Fame is another kind of loneliness: Kiran Desai on her Booker-shortlisted novel" (Sept 23, 2025): An interview regarding The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny. "Once you’ve had a rocky and unsafe childhood, you can’t trust safety: Arundhati Roy" (Aug 30, 2025): A profile on Roy’s recent reflections on personal and political violence. Signature Beats Gender Lens: She frequently critiques the "borrowed terms" on which women navigate pregnancy, menstruation, and caregiving in the corporate world. Book Reviews: Her reviews often draw parallels between literature and other media, such as comparing Richard Osman’s The Impossible Fortune to the series Only Murders in the Building (Oct 25, 2025). ... Read More