Hike, Jellybean!

Chak de! has now become something of a catchphrase. National pastimes do not suffer from shadows of colonial rule...

Chak de! has now become something of a catchphrase. National pastimes do not suffer from shadows of colonial rule or alien influence. The portly Sumo wrestlers of Japan or the kick-boxers of Cambodia will probably drive this point home. Alaskans similarly pride themselves on dog sledding, or 8216;mushing8217;, as their state sport. Their ultimate test of endurance is the Iditarod 8212; the annual 1,150-mile dogsled race from Anchorage to the town of Nome over 9 relentless days of blizzards, ice and snow.

One August evening, our helicopter reared up from a small airstrip in the Alaskan capital of Juneau under the shadows of snow-capped mountains. Ahead of us loomed Mendenhall Glacier 8212; a wall of ice sloping into the lake waters. As the pilot negotiated the landing upon the glacier8217;s vast body, I saw rows of kennels below 8212; mere specks on the spotless white landscape. A hundred restless dogs broke into an orchestra of continual barking which my kindly guide, Ben Steyer, interpreted as welcome-party excitement.

Ben harnessed 11 sled dogs as a 8216;gangline team8217; 8212; pairs on either side arranged in five rows for a two-mile sled ride around base camp. At the lead would be precious seven-year-old Jellybean. Lead dogs have a mind of their own. They regulate the speed of the team and negotiate danger. Jumpier Ferret and Beagle were the 8216;swing8217; dogs, right behind the lead. The heavier ones ahead of the sled were the 8216;wheel8217; dogs. The rest were 8216;team8217; dogs trained for their stamina and endurance. The sled was fitted with a bar to stand on, complete with 8216;snow hook8217; brakes, a crude device that dug into the white terrain upon pressure.

At the command, 8216;Hike!8217; the pack tugged and shot off into the tapestry of mountains and blue sky. 8216;Gee!8217; meant a turn to the right and 8216;Haw!8217; a sharp command to turn left. At over 20 miles an hour, man and animal tore along the snow, to the goal back near the kennels. The growling team would not be insulted by another sled passing them 8212; such was their ego. Before snowmobiles, Inuits of yore rode such sleds across the polar terrain 8212; a helpless mammal in a harsh landscape of stone and snow.

We would soon return to civilisation8217;s beat 8212; but not without remembering Jellybean and her team8217;s dash along the pathless snow.