Haute on success

In the hour-long address Athaiya took the audience on the journey which began in a middle-class Maharashtrian family in Kolhapur, touching on her association with the film industry and life after the Oscar.

8220;I was fortunate to have progressive, educated parents in whom we found ready role models. They encouraged us to excel in our chosen field. As I was drawn to the arts from an early age, my father Annasaheb Rajopadhyay arranged for an art teacher to come home to teach me,8221; she recalled fondly.

Athaiya, who had by now decided to specialise in fine arts, enrolled in the J.J. School of Arts in Mumbai. She graduated with top honours, winning the gold medal, a fellowship and being nominated a member of the Progressive Art Group, a group that had noted artists like M.F. Hussein on its rolls.

8220;I was driven by the urge to be independent and started to freelance as a fashion illustrator with various women8217;s magazines like Eve8217;s Weekly. When the editor of this magazine opened a boutique I was asked to try my hand at dress designing,8221; she remembers. It was her willingness to experiment and her determination to give of her best that saw a dedicated stream of clients making their way to the boutique. Word of this talented fashion designer reached the film world and before long Athaiya had made the switch to costume designing.

Athaiya believes that the quality of work speaks for itself and that is how she landed the opportunity to work in Richard Attenborough8217;s Gandhi. 8220;Attenborough, to whom my name had been suggested called me one day. Five minutes later he had decided that I was to design the costume of the entire cast,8221; she remembers. The Oscar that she received in 1983 has naturally been a high point in Athaiya8217;s career. 8220;There is a world of difference in the way films are made in India and the films made in the West. Most people in the country do not even know the meaning of costume designing. It is perhaps due to this reason that I have received the recognition that I deserve, not in my country, but abroad. Costume designing needs to be relevant to the character and situation of the story, which does not happen in most cases here. Other than a few exceptions most films in India have been reduced to a thinly veiled story around eight song and dance sequences,8221; she lamented.

Athaiya also had a few words of advice for aspiring designers. 8220; A certificate at the end of a brief course in fashion designing will not help you to get a job or keep it.8221; Costume designing for the film industry is a different ball game altogether. 8220;Those who want to join this field need to be good at crisis management. In an industry where everything is wanted yesterday, one has to cope with the pressure of deadlines. With irregular working hours family commitments, social life, even film tickets have to be thrown out of the window,8221; she said. Success in this competitive field would mean lots of hard work, a research oriented mind, years of experience and creativity, she said. And this Oscar winning costume designer should know.