Gold leaf and marble statues

WithH the prime minister's contentious statements on constructing a temple at Ayodhya, it appears as if Hindutva' and Indian culture' ar...

WithH the prime minister8217;s contentious statements on constructing a temple at Ayodhya, it appears as if Hindutva8217; and Indian culture8217; are primed for a flamboyant return to the national agenda. A good time, it seems, to take a look at some temple trends. There is such a thing, I discovered quite by accident when on a recent trip to Ahmedabad, everyone, but everyone urged me to visit the Akshardham temple in Gandhinagar. quot;It is not just a temple,quot; I was told by one person after another, quot;it is 8230;.quot; Words were clearly inadequate, so I decided to see it for myself.

Gandhinagar, the capital of Gujarat, is less than an hour8217;s journey from Ahmedabad. Driving there on the Sarkhej-Gandhinagar highway you pass 8212; but more on that later. First, let me describe Akshardham. The temple that was completed in 1992 is probably the most elaborate of the 350 constructed by the Swami Narayan sect 8212; which, according to its brochure, is a non-profit socio-religious organisation with worldwide centres.8217; The gates loom up at the end of the road conveying a sense of anticipation. Once past them you enter a straight paved road flanked on either side by tree-lined sidewalks. Smart volunteers man the inquiry booth and here and there are kiosks selling Pepsi and Mirinda at Rs. 5 a glass.

On a blazingly hot morning the rush is immense. A part of the crowd branches off to try the rides Tora Tora Tora8217;, Dragon Rider8217; and so on in the fun-and-games park. On the right are more diversions chiefly a landscaped garden with waterfall, lake, trees and tableaux with themes such as the Churning of Ocean by Gods and Demons8217; and the descent of Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati8217;. quot;Visitors may wander in the serene atmospherequot; the brochure suggests helpfully,quot;or contemplate on the vital aspects of India8217;s cultural spectrumquot;. The rest surge on towards the temple, cameras and water bottles dangling from many shoulders.

Clipped green lawns stretch on either side with a path cutting across to join a covered balcony. The monument8217; itself rises up in the centre: Sixyears, 6,000 metric tonnes of pink sandstone, 97 sculpted pillars, 220 stone beams, eight ornate balconies and 8,000,000 man-hours, we are told, went into the making of this nouveau architectural marvel.

The inside is equally ostentatious. Gold leaf and marble statues of the sect8217;s central figure, Swaminarayan and his followers sit under a swooping atrium ceiling. Elsewhere in its other temples are deities from the Hindu pantheon. The devotional path leads to a staircase. Follow it and you find yourself in an air-conditioned gallery where objects belonging to the sect8217;s lord are showcased in glass cases and scenes from his life recreated with statues and painted details. quot;This museum, through its historic authenticityquot; says the ever helpful brochure, quot;will ever remain the witness of God8217;s incarnation on earth.quot; A video programme, a fibre optics show and a multi-media presentation that uses 14 screens and 22 slide-video projectors further amplify the sect8217;s message. Most people, many of whom have travelled from afar to see the famed sight, stay on to take in a meal 8212; fast food served on steel trays at the spotlessly clean cafeteria 8212; and shop for knick knacks at the store.

On the way back you would need to ask for directions or look hard to spot the point where the road turns off to the Adalaj Vav, a beautiful 15th century step well, built by Rani Rudabai with layered balconies and carvings which was till recently claim locals, a picture of neglect with stray animals and vagrants having a run of the place. In contrast, what is prominent all along the highway is a series of brand new temples and ashrams, each, elaborate in its own way. There is the Gurudwara Govindham with its golden domes, the Bhagwat Vidyapith with its distinctive entrance. And then there is the Shree Matadevi Vaishnavdevi Teerthdham8211;a replica of the Vaishnodevi shrine placed atop an artificial mountain top with rocks and other obstacles recreated to make it seem like an infant version of the real thing. From the road one can see a long line of woebegone devotees curving around the fake mountain, packed tight against each other, awaiting their turn to pray.

Admittedly this is a small sample in one part of the country. But if this glimpse is any indication then clearly faith today is being marketed aggressively and expensively. Nothing wrong with that 8212; everyone is entitles to propagate one8217;s beliefs. It is the replication of the real, the recasting of myth as history and the use of the attractions of an amusement park that has wider implications. The Ram temple at Ayodhya may stay mired in controversy but perhaps it is time to take a closer look at its forerunners elsewhere and the way they are defining our culture.

Faith today is being marketed aggressively and expensively