AT HOME IN HAIFA

Haifa is a three-tiered city: the lower section, built on the land recovered from the sea, is the commercial centre with a harbour; the middle level is an older residential area; and the top consists of modern neighbourhoods with tree-lined streets, parks and pine woods, overlooking the industrial zones. In 1918, the British took Haifa from the Turks and it has a large Arab population to this day.

More interesting encounters lay in store. The glimpse of Baha8217;i Gardens, for one. From the summit of Mount Carmel, 19 terrace gardens and more than 1,500 steps sweep down towards the Haifa port. The upper terraces offer a stirring view of the blue bay below. From Bahai we traipse to Shauly resto bar for a quick bite of cous cous and falafel with grilled chicken. Shauly8217;s owner smiles. 8220;Shalom! You from Mexico?8221; He asks. 8220;Well, shalom! No, I am from India, New Delhi.8221; He seems delighted, 8220;Indian women very beautiful.8221; He does know his sales pitch.

The next day takes me to Haifa8217;s Chandni Chowk8212;Hadar market, the best place for souvenirs. Go hunting for clothes, spices and sweets. This is a hagglers8217; delight. Most of the shop-owners are former Soviet Union immigrants and my faltering Russian comes in handy. On my way back to Golda Meir, I decide to split from my group and travel alone in a bus, despite several objections. There is a sense of triumph as I reach back in one piece.

All warnings I got about Israel8217;s conservative lifestyle turns out to be unfounded. Israel is not in the least unsafe, the nightlife is great, dressing is 8220;liberal8221; and the local residents are a reclusive lot8212;they speak less, but are always willing to help. New-age Haifa is chic and, yes, a city that never sleeps. My favourite resto-bar is Periscope. It8217;s a place to chill out while you hear Shakira and Israel8217;s most popular singer Idan Raichel belt out their stuff.

Nightlife in Haifa is dotted with unexpected moments. I go for a walk to the nearby park at 4 in the morning all by myself. And what do you know? There are other night birds like me. A band is jamming in the park. Elan, our security guard with drop-dead gorgeous looks, has become my companion on my night excursions. Whenever we drop by for a drink at Hana, Grillroom Chophouse or go for a walk at Luis Promenade, he reassures me, 8220;Beautiful day. Very good day. Not like yesterday. Tomorrow even better.8221; Elan knows I am falling in love8230;err8230;with the place!

Walks in Haifa are soothing but the hills can wear you out. Do take the 8220;path of the thousand stairs8221; that starts from the scenic lookout on Yefe Nof Street Panorama in Central Carmel and leads down the mountain past the Baha8217;i Shrine and the German Colony and ends downtown. You could take the cable car Carmelit to move around Haifa but walking is the best option.

Two weeks whiz past and it8217;s time to say goodbye to Elan and Daniella. We promise to keep in touch. But as Elan helps me pick up the luggage and gives me a hug, I feel a dull ache in my heart. Farewell is tough. But I8217;m taking back memories of the striking blue sea and my two great friends. And even in Delhi, my heart will be in Haifa.

How to get there
You could fly by Royal Jordanian or Turkish Airlines to Istanbul. Tel Aviv is a three-hour flight away. Haifa can be reached through a taxi